The Chelsea Barracks may be just a short walk from the socialite stomping ground of Sloane Square, but this tranquil space feels a million miles away; consisting almost entirely of flats, the residential area brings a different vibe from the usual restaurant spots nearby, with The Campaner offering some welcome respite from the crowds.
Perched in the square, opposite the Grade II listed Garrison Chapel, the site consists of a well-polished dining room that takes inspiration from Barcelona with its exposed brick, numerous trees and laid-back style.
We take our seat on the terrace - an excellent people-watching spot – and kick off with quick fire tapas classics, like pan con tomate, ham croquettes and steak tartare. Whilst each dish is usually admired for its simplicity, they lacked any real depth, with some missing seasoning and the pan con tomate falling particularly short on the tomato front. However, the tortilla arrives topped with a punchy aioli and jamon, bringing a real hit of flavour to the table.
For mains, it felt only natural to go for the paella, which is cooked to order and arrives in a large traditional dish. We opt for the Catalan version, where the rice is cooked in a rich lobster bisque and topped with some large Carabineros prawns. It’s clear that this is a masterclass in paella cooking, with rice that is perfectly al dente, a flavour so deep and rich without becoming claggy, and an expert level of ‘socarrat’ - the crisp layer at the base of the dish, which is the benchmark of a good paella.
The wine list features bottles from around the world, but we can personally vouch for the Nosso Menade from Spain - a recommendation from our knowledgeable waiter who paired it perfectly with our food.
The Campaner, with its stunning decor and beautifully presented dishes, feels as perfectly poised as the people who live around here. Of course, with this neighbourhood comes a price tag to match, so for most, the restaurant will land itself in the special occasions bracket, but there’s no doubt this spot has potential, and with a few tweaks will be well worth the journey for any celebratory meals.