Star-worthy
How reassuring to find a restaurant that takes pleasure in making sure that its customers are made to feel welcome in a well laid out dining room, where the service is properly friendly and expert and the food well-presented and delightfully tasty. The Beehive, with Dominic Chapman at its helm, provides a super dining experience without resort to fashion or unnecessary trendiness, just peerlessly professional cooking of top-class ingredients in expertly balanced dishes. With our aperitif we had some very good rosemary and sea-salt bread rolls piping hot from the oven and, as we tend to when we are faced with an attractive à la carte menu, we selected different dishes for all three courses. My wife’s starter was a properly crispy tart with excellent sweet beetroot beautifully balanced against fairly strong goat’s cheese and with fresh apple slices, frisée and radicchio salad providing a mouthwatering accompaniment. I chose wild rabbit lasagna, the chef’s signature dish; this was a delicious mix of perfect shredded meat in a lovely pasta with a sprinkling of chervil in it and wood blewits pointing up the tender rabbit and contributing to the tasty sauce. Brixham is an excellent source for the best fish, and the whole lemon sole, on the bone of course, was a splendid example of classy freshness, beautifully seasoned, allowed to speak for itself, and complemented by splendid brown shrimps, dill and lemon butter sauce bringing out the tastiness of the fish, and even some super mash. Cornwall can also be relied upon to provide good fish and the perfect roast cod with its intense red wine jus, wild mushrooms and nicely browned gnocchi was another winner. The level of enjoyment was kept up by the first-rate desserts, a brilliantly conceived, modern take on toasty baked Alaska, and a luxurious chocolate fondant with almond biscuit, a real toffee sauce and indulgent coffee ice cream. We really enjoyed the meal and we were wholly in agreement that The Beehive is yet another example of a restaurant which is easily of the same quality, if not better, than many on the Michelin one-star list but sadly not recognised as such by the tyre maker.