The Barbary Notting Hill

If you’ve visited The Barbary’s original restaurant in Neal’s Yard, then this second site in Notting Hill will feel gargantuan in comparison. Its trademark counter still lies at the heart of the restaurant, but those who prefer a more leisurely dining experience can now tuck themselves between cosy booths and tables in a dedicated dining area. There’s a standalone cocktail bar with seating too, where skilled mixologists shake up twists on classic cocktails. It’s official: The Barbary has grown up.  

The interiors are a gorgeous mixture of natural textures and rich tones, with a crack-glazed volcanic stone bar in the centre of the room. Sharp corners have been replaced with curved edges where possible, from plush blue booths to circular art deco stools, and its beautiful counter curves smoothly so guests can sit all the way round it. It’s stylish but relaxed and feels like a fitting addition to the corner of Westbourne Grove.  

We pull up a stool in the thick of the action, watching chefs wield puffy flatbreads in and out of an enormous wood-fired oven. These must be ordered alongside a cacophony of dips, our favourite being a spicy mulch of sweet pepper and chunky feta finished with a bruléed layer of crunchy fired sugar. A line-up of torched, gnarly grills include coffee-rubbed chicken, blackened around the edges and juicy within, then served on a smooth puddle of tahini. We devour this with fluffy-crispy (for it was both) baked rice, and a brazen chunk of roasted cauliflower. Sure, it’s chicken and rice, but even the most seasoned cooks would have trouble achieving this level of cookery at home. We finished with basbousa, a sunny dish of turmeric-tinted semolina, baked until a thick skin forms, and paired with coconut ice cream. It was so rich and comforting we wolfed it in seconds.  

The damage? About £60 a head before drinks, which feels fair for a meal this good in the heart of Notting Hill. For such an almighty upgrade in size, we’re certain The Barbary will have no problem filling seats every night.

The Barbary Notting Hill marks the Mediterranean-North African small plates restaurant’s first foray away from counter dining and into a more traditional restaurant setup.

Both the Neal’s Yard institution that is the original The Barbary and its straightforwardly named sister venue The Barbary Next Door have specialised in quintessentially Mediterranean, convivial counter dining around their signature ‘horseshoe’ bar. However, the new location on Westbourne Grove, with the team behind Michelin-starred Evelyn’s Table at the helm, will focus on sit-down dining (though a small counter will remain!). This comes with the additional benefit of far more space - Notting Hill will seat around 75, compared to the 24-cover Covent Garden venue.

The so-called Barbary Coast of North Africa evokes adventure, the unknown, and the fusion of cultures European and African, and fittingly all of these ideas are present in The Barbary’s menus. The new Notting Hill menu promises the same focus on food cooked over fire inspired by the Mediterranean, North Africa, and the Middle East that was the original cornerstone of The Barbary - think merguez made in-house, seasonal flatbreads, and basbousa (an Egyptian semolina cake) or the perennial favourite pistachio hashcake for dessert.

The Barbary’s move to a sit-down space in Notting Hill also heralds a more sophisticated approach to cocktails and wine. Neal’s Yard had a limited range of well-crafted cocktails, but Notting Hill will have a dedicated ‘crack-glazed volcanic stone’ cocktail bar, implying a more extensive and innovative menu. There will also be a healthy variety of wines, with a list of more than 250, including a selection of first growth Bordeaux and several rare sparkling bottles.

The Barbary’s new outpost in Notting Hill is the perfect choice for any fan of fusion approaches to Mediterranean and North African cuisine desiring a more formal experience, with The Barbary’s trademark warm, personal approach to dining still preserved.