There’s a notable tradition of seafood cookery at this former inn, which has upgraded itself to a restaurant-with-rooms in recent years. While Thai-spiced tiger prawn risotto, citrus-cured gravadlax & deep-fried Cornish squid with sweet red pepper & chilli salsa on aïoli dressing pull in influences from all over, there’s also a down-to-earth British robustness that sees rump of local English lamb served on curly kale with ratatouille, dauphinoise potatoes & rosemary jus or fillet of beef on bubble & squeak with roast root vegetables. Eat in the sunny conservatory, amid comfortable antique furnishings near the bar, or in one of the discreet dining areas.