The Alice Hawthorn Inn

A proper countryside pub, The Alice Hawthorn Inn in Nun Monkton near York is exactly the kind chocolate box bolthole American directors of romcoms might dream up to sum up charming British village life.

It sits proudly to the side of the green, which if we’re not mistaken makes up the entirety of the settlement – with pretty brick houses mirrored back at one another in a neat circle. Having had a recent extensive refurbishment the whole building feels fresh and light without the character of the centuries old building having been sacrificed.

The dining room has a doble sided fire at its heart, with mix and match tables of locals and out-of-towners gathered round in convivial groups to give a lively but laidback background buzz to proceedings.

The menu is a heroic line-up of pub favourites, borrowing flavours and techniques from further afield in some places, while staunchly showcasing a very British love-affair with comfort food. For starters, fat, juicy prawns come generously doused in a garlic and herb butter, shells left on for a wonderful shellfish hum and bread on the side for mopping. It’s the precursor to more gutsy flavours in a classic fish and chips with a spiky tartare and a more adventurous duck dish. The latter comes as a single, sliced breast with its own support acts in mini pans to the side – one of crisp, triple cooked chips and the other holding petit pois a la Françoise where the bacon has been cleverly swapped for shredded, confit leg meat and the accompanying pieces of crispy skin. Elsewhere there are the perfect pies (fully encased, not just a pastry top, thank you very much) and wonderfully fragrant seafood stews with aioli and crisp slices of toast.

The hearty menu is made all the merrier with the staunchly northern staff who welcome you in like long-lost friends and bend over backwards to make guests feel at home.

The Alice Hawthorn Inn has a history that stretches back over 250 years, having been at the centre of Nun Monkton for centuries. It has always held a reputation for solid cookery, providing a retreat for its neighbours and those coming from further afield to walk and explore York’s countryside surrounds.

Then, in 2017, new owners took over the venture and decided that it was time for a change. Having retained much of what made it famous in the first place (top-class pub grub, a warm welcome and cosy surrounds) they added a clutch of bedrooms and transformed a little local into a destination in its own right.

As you enter, there’s a bar to your right where you can enjoy a full range of drinks – from ales and lagers through to whiskys and port – and bar snacks. The latter are a fun, please-all selection of tried and tested favourites. Think homemade crisps in various flavours and little sharing plates of seasonally focused food.

Through to the left and straight ahead, you’ll find the main dining rooms (there’s also a large private dining room avaiblae for occasion hire) with pretty furnishings and open fires. Here you’ll find a menu that doesn’t stray too far from the full throttle flavours of best-of-British. Seafood, meat and game are all on offer with little handmade pies and pithiviers perennial favourites. Come Sunday there’s a good old fashioned roast, and on the sweet line-up you can expect all the usuals. From sticky toffee pudding through to crème brulee, there are plenty of ways to indulge your sweet tooth.

If you can manage it, we’d suggest booking a room to stay the night. The garden rooms are gloriously luxurious and at odds with what you might expect from a pub – large and airy rather than small and stocky.