It’s hard to imagine Michelin-starred chef Tommy Banks washing pots here as a child, who 25 odd years later now occupies the role of chef director at The Abbey Inn. It’s something of a full-circle moment. Together with his team, he’s helped transform the 19th-century inn into a destination restaurant and pub with rooms, and the results are dazzling.
For one, it's overlooked by the statuesque ruins of Byland Abbey, which makes for spectacular viewing if you’re just popping by for a pint in its lush garden. Inside follows a similar historic theme. As we’re guided through a network of intimate rooms and cosy corners, we take stock of its original low beamed ceilings, rustic furniture and stone floors. Having said that, our table is situated in one of its more spacious rooms, the sun streaming through a huge skylight directly above us.
The menu champions a hyper-seasonal, sustainable approach to food and drink, with most of its produce grown and reared on Oldstead Farm up the road. Make no mistake, this is a proper country pub, and you won’t go far wrong with its signature beef burger. Even the precursory bread is a thing to behold, a beyond-fresh seeded loaf served with two types of butter, one flecked with pounded cheese and the other a verdant herby creation. From the specials list, a starter of asparagus with a poached egg - so often barely more than the sum of its parts - is elevated to new heights with salty ox tongue and an avalanche of Parmesan.
You’ll find more gastropubby options on the menu too, like charcoal-cooked halibut in a heavenly yoghurt whey and chamomile sauce, with fresh peas and samphire. The finale arrives in the form of three pastel-hued soft serve ice cream flavours, from lemon verbena to strawberry Eton mess. It’s the cherry on top of a faultless meal.
Finally, herbaceous cocktails, a considered wine list and local ales and spirits make for exciting reading when it comes to the drinks menu. All in all, dining at The Abbey Inn is a joyful experience from start to finish.