Barricaded from its Spinningfields location by a large collection of old bikes, Thaikhun is a lively, quick-service Thai proposition – opened by the people behind the rather more upmarket Chaophraya restaurant. The name (pronounced ‘tycoon’) is a tribute to Bangkok’s street-food sellers and the interior is rammed to the rafters with picturesque birdcages, rice sacks and maps, in an attempt to conjure a Thai street scene in one of Manchester’s more sterile strips. Whether or not you’re transported eastwards depends on the food, of course. House specials include a platter of snacks with ‘street style dips’, hot and sour soup for two to share, and a comforting five-spice stewed pork with kale, boiled egg and a garlic and chilli sauce. Everything here, from the menu to the website, is the opposite of tranquil, but if you don’t mind things hectic, the reward is some poky flavours and really fresh ingredients.