Sushi Kanesaka

Omakase dining doesn’t come cheap, but £420 per head is probably pushing it by most people's standards. Still, sushi master Shinji Kanesaka’s omakase sushi experience is widely considered one of the best in the world, a concept that’s scooped two Michelin stars at its original site in Tokyo. This UK iteration is tucked away inside Mayfair’s 45 Park Lane Hotel, which goes a fair way to explaining the eye-watering prices.

We take our seats at the nine-seat counter, which we’re told is crafted from a single piece of cedar wood flown in directly from Japan. It’s this sort of attention to detail and craftsmanship that resonates throughout the entire experience, with every element of the meal treated with compassion and consideration. Warm and attentive staff, many of whom have moved from Tokyo for the job, anticipate our needs before we know them ourselves. Drinks are replaced seamlessly, a small bowl of pickled ginger never empties, and each course – all 17 of them – flows effortlessly, without feeling rushed.

We watch head chef Hirotaka Wada prepare piece after piece of flawless sushi, crafting each bite from warm rice, fresh fish, mint green wasabi, and a brush of soy sauce. Every piece contains these four elements in varying degrees, and Hirotaka masterfully constructs each one with the muscle memory of a chef who’s done it a thousand times before. Sushi forms the foundation of the meal, but there are various interludes in the form of meltingly soft Kobe beef, sliced thinly and served with rock salt and wasabi, miso soup, and deep-fried lobster with Japanese tartare sauce. At one point, Hirotaka’s sous chef casually pulls out a charcoal grill, specifically to bring out the natural sweetness of plump, luscious prawns. Everything tastes delicious, it goes without saying, but we find ourselves more in awe of the artistry of the chefs and their methodical processes than anything else.

Sake or wine pairings can be added to the meal, starting at the not-so-modest price of £150, although we weren’t drinking on the night and instead enjoyed multiple rounds of hot green tea. Fans of experiential dining will fall head over heels for Sushi Kanesaka, and while it will certainly put a dent in your wallet, it’s an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.

Sushi Kanesaka is the London omakase counter at the glamorous Dorchester Collection's hotel 45 Park Lane. The restaurant belongs to Shinji Kanesaka - one of the world’s most highly regarded sushi masters, and holder of two Michelin stars at the original Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo.

The restaurant itself is cosy and intimate. A screen divides the room into two distinct parts - a nine-seat counter, and a private dining room with space for up to four diners. As is traditional for luxury omakase design, the counters have been carved from a single piece of hinoki wood, and the subtle, earth tone interiors are softened by gentle, natural lighting. The accompanying row of wooden armchairs are modelled on Hans J. Wegner’s iconic Wishbone design that’s said to be the perfect sushi bar seat.

The term ‘omakase’ loosely translates as ‘I’ll leave it up to you’, thus, omakase diners leave the menu entirely to the chef to decide and eat whatever they’re presented with on the night. Kanesaka’s omakase menus ebb and flow within the bounds of Japan’s 72 micro seasons, delivering 18 total courses that range from traditional dishes to a series of precise sushi and nigiri. The full omakase menu comes in at £420 a head, making Sushi Kanesaka the most expensive restaurant in the UK at the time of writing.

Kanesaka is joined by some of his experienced staff from Tokyo, and alongside service from behind the counter, guests can also expect traditional Japanese service from a geisha host.

A number of drinks pairings are also offered, with drinks including wine, beer, Japanese whisky and Japanese sake. Pairings start at £150 and rise to £220.