A couple of miles from Leeds city centre, Chapel Allerton has a growing community of neighbourhood restaurants, among them this pleasing, contemporary Thai venue. Its elaborate menu runs to more than 100 dishes, but swift cooking – as in chicken and duck livers fried with garlic, herbs, spices and oyster sauce – adds to the immediacy and punch. Steamed crab with bean-thread noodles, spring onion, coriander and Chinese leaves or spicy marinated duck fried with garlic and pepper are typical of the style and artful presentation. Service is all smiles and courtesy, and the atmosphere has an air of peaceful well-being. Short, useful wine list, too.