Sucre

From now on, we would like every restaurant we visit to don chandeliers crafted out of upside-down glass decanters. Such extraordinary creations do in fact exist, and you can find them within the dining room of Latin-American restaurant Sucre, amongst further outrageously ostentatious décor that has the potential to make one feel instantly underdressed. We didn’t though, because sociable staff and an animated open kitchen inject the place with a friendly spirit and welcoming attitude. The truth is, we felt like true royalty all night.  

Open-fire cooking lies at the heart of Sucre’s ethos and diners can quite clearly watch the wood-fired oven flicker away in the kitchen. One of the fruits to emerge from its flames was a perfectly-formed empanada filled with tangy mature cheddar and onion, still scolding hot, but not enough to deter us from scoffing the tiny parcel in seconds. Elsewhere, a single scallop dressed in zippy lime, yoghurt and hot horseradish was another short-lived delight.  

Small and large plates make up the rest of the menu, which start at about £12 and can end up somewhere around the 30 quid mark. Do order the stone bass tostada, which arrives piled with a refreshing jumble of soy, lime, sesame and avocado. The oven was put to work again via a piece of pull-apart tender lamb shoulder, which had been slow-cooked for eight hours and finished in the flames. We found the cold carrot puree a little jarring with the hot lamb, and it needed more of that sweet, sticky jus on the plate, but any complaints soon evaporated upon the arrival of dessert. A dulce de leche fondant: viscose centre oozing across the plate upon spoon contact, just as it should – half liquid, half solid and wholly delicious.  

A member of staff who knew the wine list back to front recommended a very drinkable, elderflower-tinted sauvignon blanc. Although, a cocktail is worth trying if you can (we liked the Whisky Con Soda made with honey and argentine herbs), maybe with one of those empanadas to start.

The London outpost of famed Buenos Aires restaurant Sucre finds its home on Soho’s Great Marlborough Street, occupying a 300 year old building that was previously the home of the London College of Music.

Taking over the spacious ground floor, Sucre’s dining room is a large, high-ceilinged space which has been designed by Japanese architect Noriyoshi Muramatsu. The room juxtaposes the building’s industrial features with more glamorous elements such as bespoke chandeliers made up of over a thousand cut glass decanters, while an open kitchen houses a dramatic fireplace and wood oven, which places the chef’s at the centre stage of Sucre’s dining experience.

The menu at Sucre specialises in Latin American open-fire cooking - on your visit, you might begin with tasters such as padron peppers with mojo rojo or an aged Cheddar and onion empanada. Next up, dig into small plates including scallop tiradito with coconut, sesame, chilli and avocado or the octopus tostada with soy, lime and grapefruit. Main courses come from the stove or the charcoal fire grill, with the former including dishes like cod with chickpea, leek and aioli, and the latter including grilled trout with lemon and almond butter, or a hulking bone-in ribeye steak to share, with chimichurri and fries.

As for the drinks list, Sucre’s selection of wines lists South American labels alongside wines from Europe, and there are also plenty of unique house cocktails to choose from too. Keen imbibers can also head downstairs to Sucre’s basement bar, Alma Bar London, to continue their night. Alma Bar is the brainchild of cocktail supremo Tony Pescatori and serves up innovative cocktails alongside a compact list of bar snacks.