Starling

It’s not often that a Great British Menu-certified chef rolls into a small town like Esher, but this quaint Surrey town has been blessed with new bistro Starling, from GBM 2023 finalist Nick Beardshaw. Having been Tom Kerridge’s right hand man for the best part of a decade at The Hand and Flowers, The Coach and Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, Beardshaw arrives in Esher for his first solo venture with serious pedigree, and no shortage of expectation.

You can’t miss Starling’s royal blue frontage on the Esher high street, and inside, the restaurant ticks a lot of modern bistro boxes. Beardshaw mans the pass in the open kitchen, as his team smoothly cranks through the gears of lunch service. The interiors are stylish but unassuming - wood panelling and parquet floor are lifted by shades of blue, from cobalt banquettes to cornflower on the ceiling. A line of hammered metal starlings hang from the ceiling as pendant lights, mirroring wall paintings that show birds in flight against a cloudy sky.

There’s an obvious metaphor here. Beardshaw’s own career is ready to take flight, released from under the wing of longtime mentor Kerridge. The menu, though, still feels in two minds. Two of Beardshaw’s GBM dishes are present - his banquet-winning ‘A Moon Shaped Pool’ and ‘Balloon Girl’ dessert, a tribute to the Banksy mural of the same name. Both are good dishes (the former is excellent) but they feel incongruous against a menu of hearty, elevated bistro cooking.

The best things on this menu feel like a continuation of Beardshaw’s previous cooking, but lifted and lightened for a new crowd. A crispy hash brown topped with a smooth layer of steak tartare and neat dabs of whipped bone marrow is exemplary, delivering on the high menu anticipation. A neat chicken ballotine has been executed with skill, and there’s no rocket science in pairing it with clotted cream mash and charred corn, but it does make for an absolutely delicious dish. This main is hiding on a £25 set lunch menu, which is probably the best deal in all of Surrey and then some.

One of the best dishes is saved for last - a simple but superb chocolate ice cream with a drizzle of good olive oil and a crack of salt. Starling is at its best when Beardshaw is adding his own twist to classic, comforting flavours. The familiarity of his GBM past might be helpful in the short term, but we think this Starling is ready to let go of the past and take flight.

Great British Menu star Nick Beardshaw opens his debut restaurant, a cosy Modern British concept called Starling, in Esher, Surrey. Located on Esher's high street, Beardshaw is providing Surrey locals, and visitors on a culinary pilgrimage, with a selection of as-seen-on-TV dishes as well as innovative spins on classic plates.

After 14 years working at Tom Kerridge’s restaurant group, Beardshaw partly aims to showcase his success on the hit BBC Two series at this new venue. Eagle-eyed viewers will recognise some of his winning dishes on the menu, including A Moon Shaped Pool, an iridescent starter consisting of scallop and Thai green curry-style sauce inspired by Radiohead album artwork, and the Balloon Girl dessert, a baked version of the famous Banksy artwork of the same name.

Despite this flashiness, Starling’s menu will also be concise and aim for quality over quantity, with no more than five dishes available for each course. Many of the mains will spotlight the best of British produce, such as duck from the Creedy Carver farm in Devon, or Cornish jumbo plaice. Another highlight is the Himalayan salt aged steak, available in a range of cuts, while former Restaurant Gordon Ramsay sommelier James Shaw presides over the wine, which will include sparkling wine from Sussex.

Begin your meal with a selection of the rich and decadent snacks, like a cheesy truffle crumpet and steak tartare hash browns served with black garlic. Starters are equally indulgent, with a mushroom risotto served alongside a deep-fried egg on offer. The main options demonstrate the restaurants dedication to high-quality produce, with British-sourced meat and fish taking centre stage. The Cornish jumbo plaice is a great choice, accompanied by prawn, sesame and cucumber for a lighter meal. While the menu undeniably favours the more carnivorous customers, vegetarians will be provided for, with a delicious fried artichoke option available. 

With all these delicious offerings it may be tempting to fill yourself up with the savoury dishes. This would be a mistake though, as you would not want to miss out on the famed ‘Balloon Girl’ raspberry cheesecake, though it would also be an error to overlook the delightful strawberries and cream choux bun. You are probably best off ordering one of each.

Since Starling’s avian name is apparently inspired by the species known for its spectacular communal flying, which Beardshaw calls ‘the ultimate example of teamwork’, the restaurant promises an exceptional level of service. The relatively intimate 40-seater restaurant will also experiment with counter dining, with four walk-in only seats overlooking the kitchen and bar.