Having enjoyed major success in the states, modern Italian restaurant Sparrow Italia has spread its wings and flown across the pond to open its first site in the UK. Occupying a multi-level spot just off Avery Row in Mayfair, with a ground-floor bar, two split-level dining rooms and a cigar lounge, the glitzy spot boasts all the exclusivity of a member's club, without actually being one.
As expected, the level of hospitality here is exceptional. A doorman greets us at the entrance, followed by a receptionist team on meet-and-greet duty. Next, a swift ride in a sultry red lift to the first-floor dining room, another meet-and-greet at reception number two and, finally, we’re led to our table, which is overlooked by a sprawling olive tree. It’s a very specific style of dining experience, but if you’re into that sort of uber attentiveness, then Sparrow Italia will feel like a home away from home.
We’re served by a host of smiling waiters throughout the evening, who help with recommendations and commend our choices when we order. Crisp, heavily salted squares of focaccia kick things off, followed by half a dozen mushroom arancini with a punchy truffle aioli. The lobster linguine for two is clearly its signature dish, packed with rich shellfish flavour and generous with fleshy chunks of lobster, although some bites were slightly overcooked. For secondi, a Parmesan-heavy chicken Milanese with tomato sauce and mozzarella was helped along by its cheesy crust. While the tiramisu lacked booziness, another sweet dish containing various soft textures of chocolate, praline and coffee came up trumps.
Two very delicious cocktails were served with a side of theatre: one finished with a blow torch at our table, the other revealed beneath a cloud of smoke. Sparrow does a fine job at pulling us into its delightfully decadent world, although the sobering prices ensure we keep our wits about us. And while it definitely feels more Mayfair than Mediterranean, we can see it doing well amongst the local crowd.