Bombay Bustle

A second London opening from the Leela Palaces Group, this younger sibling of big-hitting Jamavar is a “jovial, fun place” that pays homage to the “dynamism of old Bombay’s dining scene”. Inspired by India’s dabbawala lunchbox deliveries, the menu is big on street food and chaat, while the decor sees bold colours, “a heavy dose of art deco” and references to the subcontinent’s railway network – look out for the nifty hat rack-cum-mirror, overhead luggage racks and cut-glass screens.

Small plates typify the kitchen’s ambitions: doughy naan topped with lightly spiced scrambled egg and earthy truffle shavings; vegetable samosas wrapped in never-bettered pastry and lashed with refreshing mint chutney; chunks of “intensely flavoured” quail coated in Kashmiri chilli paste; warm chunks of meltingly tender goat meat served with bread rolls for dipping.

The menu is bulked out by more substantial items including tandoori lamb chops, venison rogan josh and a “wonderfully flavoursome and diverse” seafood biryani, but we’d recommend the mild Madras chicken curry, accompanied by a side of rice and a moreish wafer-thin podi dosa, ideal for scooping up leftovers.

We enjoyed what we ate, although heat and spice have been toned down for risk-averse Mayfair palates. “Lovely cocktails”, a sundae bar and knowledgeable staff are further pluses at this diverting destination, which also has the advantage of being more affordable than other high-end Indians this side of Regent Street. Appropriately, there’s plenty of “bustle” at lunchtime, and we’re told it gets even livelier in the evening.

If you’re looking for a space to enjoy the true, authentic flavours of India, pay a visit to Bombay Bustle in the heart of Mayfair. This beautiful restaurant has been designed by Fabled Studio to reflect the Art Deco period but with touches of modern Mumbai throughout. Bombay Bustle is safely under the charge of Samyukta Nair and executive chef Surender Mohan, who have worked together to craft incredible menus that feature beloved Indian street food dishes and more contemporary additions. It may be street-food inspired, but this is elevated Indian dining, the kind that deserves to be shared with friends and family.

All the best meals at Bombay Bustle begin with small plates. Think Punjabi vegetable samosas with wheat crisp, sev and mint chutney, along with an Indian spiced scrambled egg filled naan with tellicherry pepper and truffle oil, and tangra chilli chicken. From the tandoor order the chicken seekh gilafi, the achari lamb chops with pickled onion or paneer tikka mushrooms with pickles. There is a great selection of biryanis, including one made with slow cooked lamb, basmati rice, mint and boiled egg.

You’ll also find a great number of curries and dals on the menu, including the chole bhature with slow cooked chickpeas, pickle, dried mango and deep fried bread, and a palak malai kofta made with seasonal winter vegetables, leafy spinach, cashew and brown onion sauce. On the side, order a selection of overnight cooked black lentils with fenugreek and the jewelled lentils with tomato, ginger and cumin. For dessert, try the gulab jamun tiramisu with dark chocolate, mascarpone and Pedro Ximénez, or the cheesecake made with saffron caviar, gram flour and malai. There are other options of the banana caramel chocolate pie made with hazelnuts and white chocolate, and a creamy rice pudding with strawberries, passion fruit and smooth lemon balm.