Sohaila is a restaurant with a good message at its heart. The restaurant is run by a social enterprise organisation called Fat Macy’s, who use Sohaila to teach people valuable hospitality and culinary skills, helping them move from temporary to rental accommodation. Surrounded by brilliant staff and wholesome vibes, it’s hard not to be swayed by Sohaila’s general atmosphere.
Whitewashed brick, pale pine tables and plenty of greenery give Sohaila a clean, modern look, punctuated here and there by accents of gold and marine blue. The restaurant is packed and buzzing on a Tuesday evening, and each table is full to bursting with colourful Lebanese plates and natural wine bottles.
The aforementioned is where Sohaila really excels (though the cocktails are excellent too, as demonstrated by a lovely fresh vermouth aperitivo). The menu offers up a handful of snacks, small plates and large plates, which explore broad Lebanese flavours. We spread labneh liberally over thin chickpea crackers before spooning over angry red chilli oil and attempting to get the shards into our mouths without spilling anything. It’s a simple, tasty thing, as is much of what else is to come. We could eat plenty more of the melon, cucumber, za’atar and Aleppo chilli salad, and who has ever said no to a plate of fried halloumi with fig and walnut?
Down points are few and far between - a tagine of cod with fennel was a little underwhelming and lacking flavour, but the balance was redressed and then some by a plate of roast poussin, juices flowing into a puddle of garlicky toum, lentils and herb salad. The menu is pretty compact - if anything has run out and you’re a party of four or more, you might find your options a bit limited.
Desserts continue the simple but tasty theme - an almond turmeric cake with roasted greengages and whipped yoghurt is especially good - and we tumble out onto Shoreditch High Street, well fed and watered. Here’s hoping for more restaurants like Sohaila, which offer good food with wholesome motives.