With its serviceable blend of cream walls, mahogany furniture, Chinese-themed art and well-meaning service (‘point and smile’ is the order of the day), My Sichuan is hardly a standout, but it does boast a brigade of skilled chefs from Szechuan’s capital city. Consequently, the food can be relied on for punch and authenticity: no amount of lip-tingling or abrasive chilli fire is spared when it comes to sliced pig’s ears with sesame oil, ox tripe in chilli sauce, sea snails with Szechuan peppercorns or – as a sticky alternative to crispy duck – shredded pork with soya-bean paste and tofu pancakes. Diners looking for something more familiar will appreciate sizzling beef in black-bean sauce, while those seeking respite from the heat might opt for lemon chicken. At lunchtime, big noodle bowls are around £5; otherwise plump for the innovative Szechuan take on dim sum.