With striking sculptures by Damien Hirst, a dazzling pink onyx and glass bar, a huge fish tank, and mermaids everywhere, Sexy Fish landed in Manchester - the third outpost for the glitzy brand following Mayfair and Miami - with a splash in late 2023. It’s very much a dress-to-impress, see-and-be-seen destination in the city’s buzzy Spinningfields, its over-the-top opulence tailor-made for celebrations and selfies.
The food is presented immaculately, too, a procession of picture-perfect platters of Japanese-inspired sharing plates. Touches of luxury – black truffle, caviar, Wagyu, foie gras – abound. But the quality of cooking should not be overlooked. This is not just food to be artfully photographed, but to be savoured.
The chef’s selection of sashimi on our visit included elegant, bright slices of Spanish tuna, Scottish salmon and Japanese yellowtail on ice, while plump scallops with sharp, spicy pickled apple and jalapeno were served in the shell. Sticking with the sea, a generous fillet of caramelised black cod was stunningly succulent, sweet yet intensely savoury. Sexy fish, indeed.
Meat dishes were just as impressive, from spicy beef tenderloin enveloped in warming pepper and ginger flavours to the slices of expertly grilled USDA sirloin, tender as a fillet steak but twice as tasty with a punch of garlic miso. Caramelised lamb rack was pink and juicy with red koshu and anchovies lending a beautiful balance of citrus, chilli and salt to the deliciously rich meat.
Desserts range from impossibly light cinnamon doughnuts to lavish sharing platters, and the drinks list includes eye-catching cocktails as well as a huge selection of champagnes; though there are plenty of by-the-glass options, too.
None of this comes cheap; the most expensive premium omakase menu is almost £150 a head. But it’s possible to order less extravagantly and still eat well, and if you visit in the daytime rather than the DJ-fuelled, party-primed evening, then a set lunch menu offers superb value at under £30. No matter what time of day, it’s always got that special occasion vibe thanks to the spectacular surroundings, confident cooking, and charming service.