Diners at the Selkirk Arms are inspired by the words of Robert Burns’ ‘Selkirk Grace’, which he wrote while staying in this historic hotel: ‘Some hae meat and canna eat, and some wad eat that want it, but we hae meat and we can eat, sae let the Lord be thankit.’ There’s a choice of venue: the homely, tartan-bedecked bistro or the evening-only Artistas restaurant, newly refurbished in dark reds and creams. Though starters include a Scottish charcuterie board, scallops are hard to refuse (Kirkcudbright lands the UK’s greatest number of the shellfish): succulent and served in the shell with fresh samphire, tangy bacon crumb and brown shrimps. Mains comprise pub grub of the burger or pie ilk, grilled steaks, or ‘posh nosh’ such as stone bass with delectable tempura prawns and balsamic cherry tomatoes. Rich cream o’Galloway ice cream – including honeycomb and salted caramel – ends an excellent meal perfectly.