Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai

With a history dating back to 1428, Farlam Hall Hotel - set in landscaped Victorian gardens - offers an indulgent escape in the Cumbrian countryside. The hotel’s Cedar Tree Restaurant is a light, elegant space with high ceilings, soothing pastels, intricate plasterwork and crisp white tablecloths. Led by chef patron Hrishikesh Desai, who previously oversaw three restaurants at The Gilpin Hotel and Lake House and achieved a Michelin star, the restaurant’s inventive menus centre around seasonal, regional produce, much of which comes from its own kitchen garden.

With a choice of a 7-course tasting menu or 3-course à la carte, dishes reflect Desai’s heritage with clever use of spices alongside classic French techniques. Menus start with warm, crusty bread made with local Warwick Bridge Mill organic flour and homemade 36-hour fermented churned butter, and snacks such as crispy roasted garbanzo beans with sweet, spicy salsa. Our starter of pea and broadbean tart was fresh and delicate, balanced by a rich aged Parmesan custard, aromatic lovage purée, and a creamy, gently spiced moilee sauce finished with coriander oil. Plump, juicy Scottish scallops were expertly seared, served with pretty scallop cannelloni and citrusy kalamansi gel, with King's Oscietra caviar for added luxury.

Modern mains cleverly fuse flavours for creative dishes such as our fillet of cured hake, fried until crisp and golden, served with roasted pineapple and a stunning smoked sweet and sour sauce. Our tandoori Longhorn beef wellington was exceptional, tender and deftly spiced, with a warming tandoori gravy, buttery mash and vegetables from the garden. Desserts are just as accomplished; our 70% Valrhona dark chocolate delice came with beautifully balanced bites of sweet banana bread, caramelised hazelnuts and milk ice cream.

The Cedar Tree also offers afternoon tea as well as a hearty yet refined Sunday lunch, with mains of perfectly pink roast British sirloin of beef or Creedy Carver duck and, on our visit, a superb sticky toffee pudding with sweet caramel sauce given added smoky depth from peaty Laphroaig whisky. Combining flawless cookery with friendly service, plus a winning wine list, the Cedar Tree Restaurant makes for a glorious gastronomic getaway.

Farlam Hall has been a country manor for nearly 500 years, and for much of that time owned by the local gentry, the Thompson family. Created as a space to entertain family and friends, the current team are passionate about continuing its hospitable legacy with sumptious interiors, cosy fires and fantastic food and drink. 

The Cedar Tree Restaurant is the jewel in the hotel's culinary crown, boasting a Michelin star and hosting guests in a beautifully elegant space, overlooking the gardens with delicate, floral wallpaper and white tablecloths. Here, the team offer a fine-dining experience which seeks to highlight the very best of local produce and seasonal ingredients, with its heart firmly planted in Cumbria. 

Helmed by Chef Patron Hrishikesh Desai, the sample menu takes diners on a seven-course journey, starting with cod tartar in a crispy puff ball, with soya and honey dressing, carrot and cumin purée with garden cress, alongside an aubergine ‘Cornetto’ with smoked aubergine pickle and cheese mousse.

Across the main courses, enjoy dishes like fried fillet of cured hake with roasted pineapple and smoked sweet and sour sauce, as well as Aglionby Longhorn Beef tandoori ‘Wellington’ with tandoori spiced marinated beef fillet wrapped in classic mushroom duxelles, potato cream,  seasonal garden vegetables and tandoori jus.

For afters, enjoy Thompson’s farm rhubarb with vanilla pannacotta, rhubarb textures and orange cake, as well as dark chocolate delice with banana bread, caramelised hazelnuts and milk ice cream, and coffee and tea with petit fours. 

The restaurant is available to book for both overnight guests of the restaurant and visitors just for the day. For those making a Sunday booking, try the five-course Sunday lunch with dishes like poached Loch Duart salmon, crab dumpling and keta caviar beurre blanc, followed by sticky toffee pudding with dark chocolate and cardamom ganache with salted caramel ice cream.