Royale

Making a quiet corner of east London feel like the south of France is no easy task, but who better to take on the challenge than the team behind Michelin starred Leroy’s? Royale has a similar effortless style to its older sibling site, all exposed brick walls and bentwood chairs, and with a warmly lit dining room that’s filled with the ebb and flow of happy diners, you could almost be on holiday.

The smell of rotisserie chicken hits you long before you get to the dining room, with the birds turning in an oven outside the front door for full viewing pleasure. The meat is the star of the show but pre-cursory starters are just as good. A rich white bean dip generously flavoured with rosemary is served playfully with a bag of olive oil crisps for dipping and the panisse (chickpea chips) are so tempting when they arrive that you may or may not find yourself wishing you’d waited just a minute for them to cool down before shoveling them in. Soft centres, crisp edges and a dollop of aioli combine for an addictive kick off.

From the off approachable staff are keen to see guests get the most from their time at Royale, giving helpful menu suggestions and impressive wine-pairing advice. For us, a lightly creamy skin-contact wine proved the perfect partner for the mountain of golden chicken skin and dripping potatoes that was to come. The former is served as a whole, juicy bird with guests left to carve off their favourite bits into the cooking liquor, while spuds are soft and covered in fat and the run off of the herby chicken marinade. Unexpectedly a plate of greens was pretty special too – doused in peppery olive oil, lemon and mustard for the ideal light relief from the main event.

While, granted, Mile End might not be geographically close Provence, Royale does bring sunshine in spadefuls through its produce-led food that proves uncomplicated plates don't have to mean simple flavours.

As with so many of London’s exciting young restaurants, Royale was born during lockdown. You see, the brand is actually the sibling site to critically acclaimed Leroy. During the pandemic the Leroy team began delivering rotisserie chicken, potatoes and salad to local east London residents and weren’t quite prepared for the meal’s popularity.

Fast forward a few months and the concept has got its own bricks and mortar site, finding a home within trendy bottle shop East London Liquor Co. Given its location its feels right that it has been loosly themed around the French wine matriarch Lucie ‘Lulu’ Peyraud, who the team pay homage to through their cooking. A huge advocate of Provençal style, Lulu was internationally lauded for her lavish dinner parties which she hosted right up until her death at the ripe old age of 102. The menu at Royale aims to celebrate that glory garnered through gathering with friends and family that Lulu cherished, with its sharing-style format.

Heading up the kitchen are Ed Thaw and Lucy Timm who have both previously worked at Leroy. Picky plates include whipped cod's roe with bonilla crisps; devilled white bait and aioli; and potato and courgette gratin with wild garlic pesto. However, it’s the roast chicken that you’re really here for, folks. Choose between a half or a whole bird and you’ll receive your meat alongside jus-sock roasties and a mustardy mixed salad. The perfect weekend (or indeed, midweek) treat.

Puddings include classic French combinations like a pear and almond tart or a rum-infused chocolate mousse with Chantilly cream and cherries. To wash everything down there’s a list of French wines, which are served both by the glass and the bottle. On tap cocktails provide another reason to visit.

On the interiors front, things are pleasingly rustic, and there’s a large terrace too, providing the ideal summer dining spot.