Riviera

It’s impossible not to feel impressed as you enter the dining room at Riviera. Heading up the oldest escalator in London, we are greeted by an open kitchen boasting rows of lobsters on ice and a towering wine vault filled with old and new world bottles. The triple-height ceiling is met by huge windows that flood the room with natural light, creating a spacious feel and offering unbeatable views of the bustling St James’s Street below. As the name suggests, Riviera is inspired by the effortless luxury of the Cote d’Azur, reflected in soft, neutral tones - from pale wooden flooring to patterned cushioned seating - and highlighted by flashes of lush green plants.    

Upon being seated, we are introduced to our friendly waiter Andres who strikes the perfect balance of remaining nearby throughout the meal for any questions, without being overbearing. After nibbling on a crusty baguette slathered with homemade butter, we order a bottle of Beaujolais and get down to business.   

Dinner takes us on an indulgent journey through southern France via a flurry of both classical and contemporary dishes. We start with a courgette flower stuffed with briny feta, which is deep fried to crisp perfection and served with a miniature courgette, ideal for mopping up the oozing filling. On the lighter side, we also tried a king crab and grapefruit salad tossed in a refreshing lemon vinaigrette. Main course featured a magnificent bowl of lobster spaghetti with soft chunks of tail meat and blistered cherry tomatoes. However, the star of the show is indisputably a generous portion of perfectly-cooked filet mignon, which is swimming in an umami black pepper sauce that is absolutely to die for. We finish with a classic creme brulee, a shallow dish of rich custard flecked with vanilla and served with fragrant lavender shortbread.

Needless to say, if you’re after a new spot for French fine dining in a stunning setting, be sure to add Riviera to the list. 

Inspired by the luxury of southern France, Riviera is the most recent venture from Emerald Hospitality Group, the duo behind El Norte in Mayfair and Zuaya and Como Garden on Kensington High Street. Located in St James on the former site of Sake no Hana, the 16-month development was masterminded by designer Lazaro Rosa-Violan, known for her work at Amazonico and Soho House. Now having opened in April 2023, founders Arian and Alberto Zandi have grand aspirations of making Riviera ‘London’s most prominent Cote d’Azur restaurant’.  

The main dining room exudes French opulence and features showstopping towering windows overlooking St James’s Street. There is also a semi-open kitchen so guests can get an exciting glimpse of the creative action behind their meal. As expected, the menu is indulgent, rich and strikes an excellent balance of traditional yet contemporary. Kick off your meal with a steak tartare brioche, an endive salad with smoked duck breast, or if you’re feeling brave, dig into the escargot drenched in garlic butter and parsley persillade. For the main event, there is a variety of fish, meat and vegetarian options such as lobster with yuzu butter, glazed veal chop with honey and Dijon mustard or truffle and cheese gnocchi. Finish with a sweet creme brulee or tarte tatin for a truly classic dinner. Riviera also boasts a stunning wine-vault filled with top quality French wines, and both old and new-world bottles.  

On the ground floor, the Provencal ‘Amelia’ lounge churns out enticing cocktails amongst a relaxed setting; resident DJs also feature on weekends, making this a one-stop destination for a perfect evening out. An additional covered outdoor terrace is set to open in June 2023, where guests can enjoy an al-fresco experience for a real taste of life along the French riviera.