It’s not the most attractive of locations, but this imposing boozer on a busy junction is at least handy for road and rail users. Recently acquired by the Metropolitan Pub Company, and tricked out in traditional (if slightly knowing) style, the Victorian building is once more worthy of its ‘hotel’ moniker with nine smart bedrooms upstairs. It also takes its cooking seriously, hiring a chef from the River Cottage Canteen to devise a menu that combines seasonal British ingredients with the odd exotic twist – witness crispy mutton breast offset by silky-smooth hummus and dukkah spices. Best of all are the specials, designed for sharing and served family style: spit-roast chicken, whole plaice or feast of pork (Old Spot chop, faggots, sausage, sticky ribs and tail). Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, while the wine list includes a surprising number of organic bottles.