Stepping off Holloway Road and into Provisions is like breathing a different air. It's quiet, with only a few other diners, which serves to heighten the intimate atmosphere, stoked by soft lighting, wax candles, hanging plants and wine-lined walls. With a bevy of cured meats, cheeses and more on display, you might already be planning your meal before you've even sat down.
We started off with salted Spanish almonds and a duo of olives - a bowl of plump, juicy green olives, and another of incredible salty bitter black olives. Provisions puts together a feast platter for those who prefer eating over choosing, and a feast it certainly is - five types of cheese accompanied by rillettes de canard, saucisson, jamon, cornichons, sourdough bread, homemade churned butter, mussels, and, yes, more olives. The mussels were tender and meaty, the butter light and creamy. We found the rillettes de canard and saucisson to be good quality, but ultimately underwhelming; however, the cheese was a different story.
Fromage fans take note - this is cheese as an out of body experience. We sampled goat’s cheese, Manchego, Tomme de Savoie, appenzella and bleu de Gex, and each was faultless. The Manchego particularly was star of the show - creamy and crumbly with the perfect amount of bite.
Provisions is as much about wine as it is about food, and we sampled a number of wines on the night, each one highly recommended by knowledgeable staff who were eager to tell us the provenance of every bottle. Oenophiles who love to try new bottles will be right at home here; we tried an intriguing Milouise, for example - a complex cuvee made from many different grapes with a thrilling acidity to perfectly balance out the richness.
Putting excellent food and wine aside, perhaps the thing that defines the Provisions experience is the staff, who's excitement and infectious enthusiasm is palpable. They're incredibly attentive, asking each guest what they are looking for and tailoring the menu to their individual tastes. The carefully-sourced products are fully capable of speaking for themselves, but the knowledge and diligence of the staff really elevates the experience.