This unassuming-looking pizzeria generated a fuss few can match when it opened, thanks to its then parent: a venerable Neapolitan restaurant lauded in the book and film Eat, Pray, Love. Stoke Newington provided the venue for the third outpost of ‘the best pizzeria in Naples’ (according to quite a few Neapolitans) and nothing distracts from its wood-fired sourdough gems. In the summer of 2018 however, the pizzeria changed it's name (following a legal fallout with the original site) to Pizzeria Stokey, but the offering remains much the same.
The menu lists just two pizzas – margherita and marinara, in two sizes – produced by a chirpy brigade of chefs at the back of this simple, brick-and-white dining room. There are no starters, sides or even condiments, but we weren’t disappointed. The pizzas arrive with slightly sloppy toppings and a chewy-yet-moist, charred crust; we recommend the double mozzarella, a bella blend of tomato tang and fior di latte milkiness. To drink, choose Birra Moretti beers or one of a handful of Italian wines (including a Melizie dessert wine to match the ready-made, cream-filled puddings). Sadly, service began to fall apart on our visit, perhaps unsurprisingly given the pressure from the growing queue. As ever with no-reservations restaurants, arrive early (or simply order a takeaway). Is this the best pizza in London? Given the fierce competition we hesitate to make such a sweeping statement, but there’s no doubt da Michele’s contenders are superb, and a bargain.