Pastaio

Pastaio is the newest site from restaurateur Stevie Parle, who already oversees the likes of Rotorino and Palatino. Here at Pastaio, the name of the game is to serve plates of handmade pasta at pocket-friendly prices. Tightly packed tables lend themselves to creating buzz, while we have a sneaking suspicion that the vibrant pops of colour and marble-topped tables were chosen with Instagram in mind. Other millennial-bait includes great lemon-dashed Prosecco slushies and a moreish fried ’nduja, mozzarella and honey sandwich which is satisfyingly ‘dirty’, if not the instant classic we’d hoped for. Where  Pastaio really shines is in its eight pastas. Soft shells of malloredus are served with crispy shards of pork and a thick sausage sauce, while supremely velvety agnoli is folded over a gamey filling of pheasant, rabbit and pork. Desserts stick to the Italian classics, with the likes of tiramisu and a selection of gelato, but we were impressed by a flaky cannoli, dotted with jewels of pistachio and completed by a fluffy orange and saffron filling. It may not live up to the giddy heights of the much-lauded Padella, but for affordable, fun comfort food in the heart of Soho, we reckon Pastaio is worth every penne.

Pastaio (meaning ‘pasta-maker’) is in the business of making fresh pasta daily from the centre of Soho. The third restaurant by chef and restaurateur Stevie Parle in 2017, Pastaio’s aim is simple: to produce fresh, nourishing pasta dishes that privilege quality Italian and British produce.

Pastaio’s doesn’t take itself too seriously, and its interior reflects this. One side of the restaurant is lined by a playground-like mural wall, featuring bright, colourful shapes, while the seating arrangement consists of strips of communal tables, clad in flecked stone. The bright lighting and conjoined tabled gives the atmosphere of a canteen, but also contributes to the lighthearted simplicity of the restaurant.

Pastaio’s menu is short and to-the-point. Starters veer slightly from the pasta theme, offering alternative snippets of Italian cooking with the likes of sweet and sour Sicilian caponata, irresistible globes of burrata, and an ‘nduja, honey and mozzarella fried sandwich. The main event of the pasta course offers a curated selection of pasta shapes and sauces to cater to every need. Choose from a pairing of spaghetti with fresh Amalfi and basil, casarecce in courgette and feta, or pappardelle adorned with an eight-hour beef and porcini ragu. In addition to staples like aglio e olio and clam linguine, there’s a whole lobster linguine to share, with the option to add extra bottarga. Pastaio also offers a dedicated vegan menu, and every dish can be made with gluten-free pasta.

Desserts are as expected: a simple choice between tiramisu, affogato, or a choice of ice cream and sorbets.

Aperitivo drinks fit for a Roman holiday are on offer, in addition to a novelty slushie machine churning out lemon and grappa prosecco slushies. There’s also a solid selection of Italian wines by the glass, carafe and bottle.