When is a pizza restaurant not just a pizza restaurant? When it’s opened by a proper Neapolitan. Also, when it's part of an organisation that promotes traditional pizzas around the world and uses a special ingredient (sea water) which apparently enhances health benefits and lowers salt intake. Finally, when it’s just off Borough Market, and can bask in the glory of its perfect foodie setting. Of course, there are other dishes on the menu (salads, fresh pastas and homemade bread) but the main focus of this elegant, marble-lined restaurant is those pizzas, emerging from the traditional wood-fired oven. O ver? translates as "oh, really?" – they're clearly out to reward the curious.