Devonshire Club's Number Five is a sophisticated modern British which is open to the public from Friday to Sunday. The sleek interiors feature colour pops of canary yellow and midnight blue, while a considered wine list and staff gussied up in waistcoats add an element of subtle luxury.
The menu namechecks contemporary British ingredients alongside a selection of steaks from the grill. We kicked off with sweet potted crab which was livened up by a tangy bed of pickled cucumber, while a tightly-packed duck terrine garnished with fig and apple also impressed.
From the selection of artfully plated mains, which includes the likes of mussels and slow-roasted pork belly, we were taken with the cod: pleasingly flaky, it arrived in a pool of thick sweetcorn and potato chowder, which was studded with tiny chunks of smoked pancetta.
A gooey chocolate pudding complemented by marmalade ice cream is the standout from the pudding selection, and there is a list of fortified wines for extra indulgence. Prices reflect the City location and swanky surroundings, but a seasonally changing set menu offers good value. Slick, elegant and conveniently located, Number Five is a good reason to eat out in the Square Mile at the weekend.