Nipa Thai

Shining a light for London’s Thai fine dining scene is Nipa Thai, the rather serene and lovely restaurant housed in the towering Royal Lancaster London in Bayswater. You wouldn’t know it from the hotel’s old-school whitewash facade, but the first floor is home to a little Thai oasis of calm; in fact, Nipa Thai is one of a select group of London restaurants with a Thai Select Award - given out by the Thai government to restaurants that represent authentic Thai cuisine.

Polished timber, pleasantly-worn carpets and patterned upholstery give Nipa Thai a tidy, old-fashioned charm that, like the staff, feels very warm and comforting. There’s no denying the vistas either - you’re only on the first floor but if you’re near the windows, you get a lovely view out towards Hyde Park, and the comings and goings of Bayswater.

Staff are on hand to help you decipher the menu, which, given the bonanza of delicious dishes on offer, is most welcome. Appetisers cover much of what you know and love - juicy, golden satay skewers, Thai fish cakes with sticky sweet chilli dipping sauce, crisp spring rolls stuffed with glass noodles and steamed chicken dumplings with roasted peanuts and lettuce. Everything is immaculately presented and delivered, a kaleidoscope of colour and flavour that puts to shame most of the lukewarm Thai food you’ve ordered from your local takeaway over the years.

There’s a huge range of curries, soups, rice and noodle dishes, and with helpful guidance we found our way to a delicate special of tamarind prawns, grilled in the shells, and a mixed seafood green curry, rich with coconut, herbs and spices. Little pockets of bitter Thai aubergine and holy basil provide jolts of different texture and flavour. It’s a lesson in what the real version of this beloved dish should be. Meanwhile, the adaptable wine list has been carefully curated, and there are a handful of very drinkable signature cocktails too, as well as refreshing Thai teas.

We probably could have taken more heat in some of the dishes (something you could request no doubt if you’re a spice-fiend) but from front to back Nipa Thai’s menu shows balance and restraint, in a lovely setting. The prices are steep - not a surprise given the location and setting - but those in search of accessible and authentic Thai cooking won’t be disappointed here.

Tucked away inside the grand Royal Lancaster London you'll find Nipa Thai, an authentic Thai restaurant run by head chef Sanguan Parr and her all-female kitchen team. Nipa translates as 'shining light' in Thai, and this restaurant has certainly been a leading light when it comes to Thai food in the capital. In fact, the restaurant holds a Thai Select Award from the Thai government, awarded to restaurants that represent authentic Thai food around the world.

No expense has been spared when it comes to the interiors either - all the teak used to craft the restaurant has been sourced direct from Thailand, and it has been used to great effect in the furniture, as well as intricate decorative carvings on the walls. Combined with the patterned carpets and textured upholstery, it all gives Nipa Thai a slightly old-fashioned, comforting feel, without the restaurant feeling too stuffy. 

Meanwhile the menu reflects a similar approach to tradition and authenticity. Thai cuisine is all about balance, and the menu here shows that finesse across a wide range of starters, soups, curries, stir fries and rice and noodle dishes. The menu is pretty familiar for the most part, including the likes of crispy spring rolls with glass noodles, Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli, and deep-fried soft shell crab. There are authentic flavours seen less commonly in the UK too, such as steamed rice wraps with sauteed chicken, shallots and crisp lettuce. 

If you find the menu a little overwhelming in terms of choice, Nipa Thai offers a range of set menus as well, so you can sit back and enjoy the food without stressing about what to order. There's also a dedicated vegetarian set menu, and in general, there's plenty of choice for vegetarians here.