Murano

Fresh off a breezy refurb, Michelin-starred Murano’s forest green awnings are looking as smart as ever, as light beams out through the front windows onto Queen Street. After fifteen years at the top of the game Murano is stone-clad Mayfair royalty these days, and it still has an air of magic.

Though the refurb may have slightly loosened up Murano’s double Windsor, it still feels thoroughly sophisticated inside, and it still attracts an older, more affluent crowd as well as some one-off celebration dinners. Pale, soothing tones meet the odd art-deco flourish and, of course, an abundance of Murano glass. Our table at the back of the restaurant has a prime view of the kitchen through a large viewing window - a sighting of Angela is not a guarantee but the bustling kitchen is fun to watch nonetheless.

What sets Murano apart from similar restaurants is how slick the experience is. Staff are incredibly knowledgeable, and extremely good at offering help without being intrusive. The flexible a la carte allows you to choose anywhere between three and six courses, but rather than being over or underfed, the kitchen automatically balances the size of your portions accordingly.

Nothing ever feels like too much to ask at Murano, and if the staff are fantastic, the food is even more so. Hartnett looks at Italian cuisine through English eyes, but her vision is one of simplicity. What other restaurant of this level would serve you tortellini en brodo without flinching? Seven beautiful tortellini are so perfectly folded they seem almost not real, arranged in a flower pattern, submerged up to the waist in rich chicken broth. It’s heavenly, and just one of five brilliant courses that also includes sea bass crudo with ajo blanco, and a beautifully cooked piece of halibut in a gutsy langoustine bisque.

Sommelier service is predictably superb - we left choices in the hands of our sommelier and he came back with a range of options from classic to left-field. Murano sealed the deal with a last flourish - a spoon of lemon sorbet slipped into the middle of a greengage souffle. After fifteen years, Murano might be as good as it has ever been.

Located in the heart of Mayfair, Murano is Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred restaurant, where diner's can indulge in the chef’s signature honed Italian cookery. Having mastered the staples of Italian cooking from her grandmother and aunts, the food is a reflection of Harnett’s childhood, elevated with excellent quality produce and knowledge acquired from decades in the UK's culinary scene.  

Aiming to take the stuffiness out of fine dining, the space is warm and welcoming, with soft lighting, comfortable seating and eccentric paintings on the walls. It's the perfect setting for a relaxing yet elegant meal. The a la carte menu changes regularly to ensure all ingredients are as seasonal as possible and features a select few dishes per day, which diners are encouraged to try in whatever order they please.

Choose from anywhere between three or six courses, with no traditional signposting as to what might be a starter or main, bringing an element of unexpected theatre and entertainment to the table.  

The frequently changing a la carte menu might include the likes of rabbit raviolo with courgette, basil and sauce vierge, red mullet with burnt orange romesco and a ricotta filled courgette flower, and veal tartare with aged parmesan, almond cream and dill, all of which featured on the restaurant's summer menu. To finish your meal, tuck into desserts like caramelised Amalfi lemon tart or whisky baba with strawberries and smoked vanilla ice cream. Each dish displays a suggested sweet wine pairing, too.  

To accompany your meal, the Murano wine cellar comprises outstanding bottles from renowned Italian vineyards, as well as international bottles. The collection focuses on grapes that complement the cuisine and growers who share the ethos of quality and flavour. There is an extensive number of wines available by the glass, including Champagne and sparkling wines, as well as plenty of sought-after bottles from highly regarded labels.