Canary Wharf is notorious for having a lack of good restaurants given how much disposable cash there is sloshing around Docklands, so when Cyrus Todiwala of Café Spice Namasté announced a new outpost in E14, more than few business folk got excited.
And with good reason, for Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is pretty impressive. High ceilings allow for plenty of wall hangings such as punkah-wallah fans and copper pans while a large, engraved wooden elephant dominates the space with character.
The kitchen produced a seemingly effortless array of modern Indian dishes. We started with a crispy puffed puri dish, with crushed potatoes and chickpeas, that wasn’t too dissimilar to a spicy version of Rice Krispies, tempered by yoghurt and fresh green chutney. We followed this with an aromatic goat dolasa, a very delicate rice and lentil pancake.
Our next series of dishes included an exemplarily tender chicken tikka with sweet potatoes, and a pumpkin and carrot soup that made for a warming mid-meal consommé. The only let-down was a lamb bhuna curry that, while homely and satisfying, felt a bit boring compared to the other dishes we tried. Puddings were also hit and miss; we'd recommend the bebinca, a nutty pancake with Portuguese origins.
We washed our meal down with a cooling bottle of IPA made specifically for the restaurant – typical of a venture that brings a refreshingly individual spirit to chain-dominated Canary Wharf.