Mildreds Covent Garden

Mildreds is known as a stalwart of London’s vegan scene, with its flagship branch opening in Soho back in 1988, when the founders will tell you that being plant based didn’t help get customers through the door. Now, though, there’s no better time to be meat-free and it shows, as Mildreds continues to grow with new openings, a concept-lead eatery in Borough Market and an online store.

At Mildreds sixth opening, just a stone’s throw from Leicester Square, the first thing you’ll notice is its coral façade and scallop-edged awning – very cute. The palatable décor continues inside with several interiors staples you’d expect to see in 20s including wall panelling, marble-topped tables, large palm plants and aesthetically-pleasing shelving units decorated with the viral ‘bum vase’. Tables are packed quite tightly, but this also brings an atmospheric buzz which feels right for the heart of Covent Garden.

We found staff to be up-beat, helpful and knowledgeable about the menu; happy to guide a newbie through. Priorities are priorities however, and so we recommend getting your cocktail order in, because these bartenders know what they’re doing. Imaginative and just gimmicky enough, there’s some interesting flavour combinations and many come with picture-worthy garnishes. The lychee rose martini is an instant crowd-pleaser, balancing dry gin with fragrant rose and a sweet, fruitiness. While the banana hazelnut old fashioned is smooth and drinkable, perfect for afters.

When it comes to digging in, there’s lots to keep you occupied. Weekday and weekend brunches are available, but we ate from the all-day menu which is broken into smalls for starters, big plates and buns. Chipotle cheez nachos are a must – as real cheese fans, we were shocked by its rich, creamy, gooey consistency and that by the end, we were practically licking it off our fingers. For winter, the shiitake tempeh noodles are a lovely choice. Warming and hearty, the tempeh balls come from Club Cultured and are satisfyingly meaty (sorry), with a teriyaki glaze that gives them a kick. You must also give Mildreds’ take on a British classic, bangers and mash a go. The tangy mustard mash with onion jam and red wine jus comes together perfectly topped with yes, a couple of fennel and pepper sausages, but more importantly those crunchy parsnip crisps add something different. Leave room for pud, because you’ll want to try the white chocolate tiramisu which is a sweeter take on the original.

Mildreds made its name when it opened its first restaurant in Soho back in 1988, serving properly exciting plant-based fare at a time when veggie and vegan food connoted nut roasts and not much else. Since that blessed day, it’s gone from strength to strength (as has the popularity for plant-based eating), with Mildreds in Covent Garden being the sixth addition to its restaurant line-up. Located on St Martin’s Lane, customers can expect to find plenty of vibrant, innovative and fresh dishes, with an all-day offering that spans breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.  

The site is split across two floors and serves 110-covers, so you don’t have to worry too much about getting a table here. There is also a private dining room that accommodates up to 8 guests. In terms of the restaurant’s interiors, diners can look forward to a fresh re-branding from the group, along with a new seasonal menu featuring plenty of all-day dishes that are packed with flavour.  

Examples of dishes from its all-day menu might include a Soul Bowl crammed with goji carrot quinoa, kale, sesame mushrooms, pumpkin seeds, avocado and cashew butter, or Kiri Hodi which sees weet potato, green beans, pea basmati, tomato sambal and coconut cashews cooked in a coconut curry leaf sauce. Look out for one of its famous burgers, such as the Korean Fried Chick’n stuffed with kimchi, a fragrant herb mix, gochujang mayo, korean fried chick’n sauce and served with fries. There are also a ton of gluten-free and dairy-free options available.  

The cocktail list adds a fresh spin to classic creations, such as the Blackberry Rosemary Margarita made with blanco tequila, cointreau, blackberry coulis, rosemary and orange bitters. While a selection of wines (including orange wine), beers and ciders are on the menu – and all of them are vegan.