The mellifluous smells of garlic and spices greet pedestrians outside this simple, perennially popular Lebanese canteen, which laughs in the face of fancy design. Yes, there is a characterful souk-like space at the back, accessed through the restaurant’s pantry, but the real action is out front where a frenzied, open kitchen plays host to half a dozen cramped wooden tables. It’s a fun, relaxed playground for those who love their falafel, hummus, tabbouleh and moutabal (grilled aubergine, tahini and lemon juice). We’d recommend the first-rate chicken livers, sautéed prawns and minced lamb kibbeh, too. To follow, stick with one of the high-protein grills or kebabs (lamb or chicken) and you won’t go far wrong. Wash it all down with a pick from the short but decent selection of gutsy Lebanese wines – if you fancy something stronger than mint tea.