Maria G's Kensington

Hidden off the beaten track, on the ground floor of a block of luxury apartments in Kensington, this Italian-inspired venture from Robin Gill serves a somewhat niche clientele of local residents. Google Maps and clear signage successfully guided us through the residential area though, and the good news is you don’t have to live in the swanky complex to eat here.  

Once you get past the slight faff of locating it, everything from the service to the food will remind you why you made the effort in the first place. A swarm of friendly and professional staff greeted us warmly at the door, guiding us through the shiny-new, art-deco-inspired dining room to our table. Back-to-back emerald green booths run the length of the restaurant, while large concertina doors look over the lush Italian-inspired garden, which is punctuated with giant olive trees and a pristine paved terrace. It's a fantastic spot to sip on one of its Amalfi Spritz cocktails, a sprightly drink boasting notes of sherbet and limoncello that puts its Aperol-based cousin to shame. 

Things start with two impossibly fluffy cubes of rosemary-tinted focaccia, plus a genius take on fritti which sees anchovies sandwiched between two sage leaves and deep fried until crisp. Next, a saffron-hued scallop and melon tartare was sweet and refreshing in all the right places. We were especially intrigued by a dramatic-looking plate of squid ink linguine dolloped generously with mackerel bolognese – the result was rich and surprisingly meaty. Another great thing: egg-rich agnolotti filled with ricotta and doused in cheese and butter. While a fragile bite-sized cannoli filled with a cooling splodge of salted chocolate and encased in brittle, crisp pastry, was so good we had to order another.  

If we had to be pedantic, we might note that a few dishes were a touch over seasoned, while others arrived slightly smaller than we were expecting, which could sting a little considering the mackerel bolognese is £17. Still, we’re mightily jealous of its local residents for living a lift-ride away from such brilliant cooking.

Maria G’s is a neighbourhood restaurant and bar in west London, serving classic brasserie dishes, European wines and expertly-crafted cocktails. The restaurant is found on the ground floor of a residential development, with a dining room that opens up onto a terrace where guests can enjoy al fresco dining. Inside, a marble dining counter takes centre stage, while parquet flooring and floor-to-ceiling windows create bright, laid-back surrounds.

The menu revolves around seasonal, produce-led dishes, with a focus on familiar brasserie classics. For example, you might begin with the likes of moules mariniere, a chicken Caesar salad or oak smoked salmon with lemon, parsley and capers. While mains include things like fish and chips, a classic cheeseburger and Greek salad, alongside more refined plates - think seared cod fillet with mashed potato, crunchy onion, caviar and Champagne sauce. For dessert, expect indulgent favourites such as a warm chocolate fondant, and a daily ice cream selection.

Maria G's Kensington is open all day, and also offers classic breakfast dishes, an a la carte lunch offering, Sunday roasts, and a dedicated pizza menu if that's what you fancy. In fact, the pizza menu is available only at the Kensington branch (it has a second site in Fulham) and features a handful of options, including a dedicated kids pizza. So, whether its an elegant special occasion or a casual night out with the family, Maria G's caters for all occasions. 

The European wine list centres largely around Spanish, Italian and French producers, while refreshing spritzes and expertly mixed cocktails make ideal aperitifs. Make the most of warm summer evenings and enjoy a drink out on its alfresco terrace (although it's covered and heated, so diners can enjoy it all year round).