Marceline

Marceline is one of the headline acts of Canary Wharf’s foodie resurgence, with pride of place on a floating site along Water Street. Walking to the restaurant, you’re quickly reminded of just how the Wharf has changed in recent years. To your left is Hawksmoor, to your right is Roe - the latest opening from the Fallow team. Dead ahead is Dishoom’s massive Canary Wharf site. That’s just a snapshot of food life in the Wharf now - there’s no lack of competition here these days.

But pressure creates diamonds, as they say, and Marceline’s huge site isn’t exactly flying under the radar. One of the big advantages of the location is that the dining room is almost entirely surrounded by double-height glass, making it gorgeous and bright. The art deco styling is classic, but beautifully done - we love the logoed plates, which have something of Matisse or Picasso about them, and the gentle curve of the floor lamps as they arc high over the tables. Distressed mirrors set high around the room make everything feel upscale but pleasantly worn. Marceline has the looks and the stature of a great European grand cafe.

The menu is staunchly dedicated to Gallic treats - if you’re a French food purist, Marceline is most certainly for you. We’re delighted to see the likes of salmon rillette, pate de campagne, a twice-baked cheese souffle and steak tartare among the starters, so much so that we order three between two. All are superb, particularly the tartare, which is roughly chopped and lifted by hazelnuts, artichoke crisps and a bundle of watercress. Steak frites is a bargain at £19, and the chunky strip of onglet is perfectly cooked. The frites are excellent. The lobster is beautifully cooked, nicely mounted with garlic butter and palmed onto a pile of those good chips. This is food that stands the test of time, executed to high standards.

Jeffrey Koren runs a superb wine service and an excellent list, which includes some rare and welcome by-the-glass options. The cocktail programme is equally laudable. Marceline doesn’t take your breath away in any department, but even when you have a good hard look, it’s hard to find a chink in the armour. Smartly designed, reasonably priced and well executed, it’s a restaurant we’d happily come back to again and again.

Nestled in the heart of Canary Wharf, Marceline is an elegant, traditional French brasserie paying tribute both to Parisian and New York iterations of the cuisine.

At the helm on the culinary side will be Robert Aikens (twin brother of Tom), a veteran of Le Gavroche, Tom’s Kitchen, and most recently the NYC Meatpacking District’s renowned bistro Pastis. Aikens will bring a similar playful approach to traditional French fare in this new venture on London’s docks, which will be open from morning until late, seven days a week, and will occupy the top floor of the striking floating building currently occupied by Hovarda on the ground floor.

Aikens’ dishes aim to prioritise comfort and familiarity while not compromising on technical skill, and include perennial classics like steak tartare, tuna nicoise, and French onion soup, alongside menu items that push the envelope slightly further such as skate Kyiv with pomme puree and the almost-too-perfectly presented ravioles du dauphine sheet pasta, as well as considered vegan options like gazpacho verte with green grapes. Finish your meal with light, summery desserts such as madeleines with pistachios or peach Melba.

In the evening, the venue transforms from chic Parisian cafe-cum-bistro to sleek and intimate spot for a nightcap. Wine, under the leadership of Jeffrey Koren, is serious business here, with a list pushing 30 bottles and prioritising lesser-known regions across Europe. There are also cocktails available either to order to table or to enjoy at the adjoining bar Salon Marceline, including a self-explanatory ‘Two Sip’ Martini (part of the ‘mini cocktail’ trend currently taking the UK by storm) and Absinthe Sour.