A daytime café and late-night saloon, MAP Maison feels like an exotic old train carriage – such is its long, narrow space. The venue was formerly The De Beauvoir Tavern and is resplendently furnished in Moorish tiles and Edwardian velvet plush. Quality cocktails are elegantly presented in curious bespoke vessels, and might include an aged Mezcal Negroni, or Black Sea (vodka, mint, cranberry, lemon and olive oil served with squid ink, samphire and roe). Such recherché rinses are the inspiration of head honcho Joseph Arowolo, who was for many years bar manager at the similarly adventurous Sketch in Mayfair. Here, locked cupboards house rare hooch and members’ bottles, and DJs spin funky beats until gone midnight. Charcuterie and cheese plates are what to order with wines (from £23.50) and fancy French fizz. Perrier Jouët (£52) and 2004 Dom Pérignon at three times that price… in once-humble Haggerston – who’d have thought it?