Lucio is the kind of swanky Italian you’d expect to find in Mayfair rather than Fulham Road, complete with photographs of movie queens, exuberant floral bouquets, lots of linen and legions of “trussed-up” waiters. However, it also exudes the docile charms of a family-run, neighbourhood trattoria – albeit at “eye-watering” prices. Well-to-do locals reckon it’s just the ticket for a regularly changing menu that blends elements of old and new Italy: expect traditional staples such as beef carpaccio, duck breast with blueberry sauce or chicken paillard with spinach and roast potatoes alongside more upbeat offerings including baby octopus soup with broad beans, pear and Taleggio ravioli with walnut pesto or char-grilled scallops with roasted peppers, Sardinian fregola and mint. The homemade pasta is a must, truffles make their seasonal appearance, and wines are gleaned from fruitful Italian vineyards. Set lunches also get good notices.