Lorne

Ex-River Café sommelier Katie Exton has taken full advantage of Victoria’s blossoming food scene with this 48-cover modern Brit, in collaboration with chef Peter Hall (formerly at The Square). Light-filled Lorne is a calming oasis of washed-out colours, with house plants lining the walls and a menu dedicated to seasonal, local produce. Dishes change daily, but we were impressed by an unashamedly rich starter of cuttlefish seasoned with fennel and pickled onions, coated in a creamy romesco sauce. Mains saw a generous serving of tender, corn-fed chicken, supported by a side of onion tart and a hunk of roasted cauliflower.

Finally, a chocolate crémeux dessert avoided excessive heaviness thanks to refreshing drizzles of passion fruit and crisp mouthfuls of honeycomb: typical of what one reader calls “great on-point cooking”. Meanwhile, Kate Exton’s oenophile expertise shows in a globe-trotting list with some “spectacular” food-matching opportunities – there’s also a downstairs bar and wine cellar that’s worth perusing. With its chatty staff and truly relaxed atmosphere, Lorne is a very welcome addition to the neighbourhood.     

Nestled in the heart of Victoria, London, Lorne is a modern British restaurant that seamlessly blends contemporary design with a commitment to seasonal cuisine. The interior exudes a serene and inviting atmosphere, characterised by light, airy spaces adorned with pastel hues and natural wood furnishings. The dining area features birch tables and spindle-back chairs, complemented by abundant greenery that brings a touch of nature indoors.

This design approach has been likened to "the conservatory of your rich aunt in Surrey," offering a comfortable and homely dining experience. The restaurant's layout is sleek and modern, with a narrow yet open plan that fosters an intimate dining environment. Marble-topped bars provide an elegant touch, while handcrafted pottery and artwork add personal and artistic elements to the space. The overall design draws inspiration from Lorne's Australian namesake, aiming to reflect the calm, washed-out aesthetics of the Great Ocean Road.

Lorne's menu showcases inventive yet unfussy dishes that highlight seasonal British and European ingredients. The offerings change regularly to align with the quality of available produce, ensuring a fresh and dynamic dining experience.Sample dishes include mackerel with pickled cucumber, ratte potatoes, and nasturtium, as well as short rib beef accompanied by onion, pears, and cavolo nero.The restaurant also offers a set menu, providing a curated selection of their culinary creations.

Wine plays a significant role at Lorne, with a carefully curated list that evolves regularly to feature selections from around the world at fair and reasonable prices. This emphasis on wine complements the food, creating a harmonious dining experience where both elements are given equal importance.

Since its opening in 2017, Lorne has been led by co-founder and owner Katie Exton, a former sommelier at esteemed establishments such as The River Café. The kitchen is headed by Graham Brown, who became Head Chef in 2021 after previous tenures at renowned restaurants including The Square in London and Eleven Madison Park in New York.

Located just a five-minute walk from Victoria Station, Lorne offers a tranquil retreat amidst the bustling city. Its combination of thoughtful interior design, a seasonally driven menu, and a passion for wine makes it a noteworthy destination for those seeking a refined yet relaxed dining experience in London.