Lina Stores Soho

Opened in 1944, legendary Soho deli Lina Stores has managed to survive the sky-high rents and glossy redevelopments that have claimed so many of the area’s Italian old-timers. Now, it has produced a bambino: a “truly authentic” debut pasta restaurant just a few minutes’ walk away on Greek Street.

Here, the exterior proudly displays Lina’s signature green-and-white colour scheme, which is continued inside the tiny space. Try to bag a seat at the counter and watch the chefs at work (all pasta is made on site daily); alternatively, head to the basement, where the tables are packed tuna-can tight and chatting is easier. Either way, fans reckon that “the passion of the staff is contagious”.

To start, we were won over by some lusciously fatty strips of slow-roasted pork belly sandwiched between slices of crisp ciabatta, and also by the meat-free aubergine polpette with San Marzano tomatoes.  Also check out the arancini involving black trompette mushrooms, Taleggio and Gorgonzola.

However, it’s all about the main event: readers say that Lina’s is “pasta heaven at incredible prices” and we’ve also been impressed: gamey veal ravioli features tender chunks of meat wrapped in delicate parcels with a smattering of breadcrumbs providing some added crunch, while sticky green gnudi also makes for a heavenly plateful, the smooth ricotta and herb filling melting on the tongue.

In comparison, we were underwhelmed by an overcooked, dry slice of Amarena cherry and almond tart offered for dessert. Much better was a zesty Blood Orange Bellini. Our advice? Skip pud and order another plate of pasta (plus a cocktail) – your dough will be well spent at Lina’s.

Known across the city as the place to go for fine yet unfussy, delicious Italian food, Lina Stores are renowned for their fresh pasta and sauces, delicious meats, formaggi and antipasti. This Soho spot is just around the corner from the chain's original delicatessen on Brewer Street. The first of the Lina Stores restaurants, the Greek Street location serves traditional pasta dishes that take their inspiration from the deli, along with a selection of great sides and desserts.

Bocconi is the first section on the menu, and includes salame finocchiona, green cerignola olives and sea salt and rosemary focaccia with extra virgin olive oil. The antipasti options sound truly divine, with dishes of fried ricotta and herb gnudi with calabrian chilli marmellata, cuore di bue tomato with anchovy, tropea onion and basil, and black angus beef carpaccio with lemon, rocket and grana padano.

The pasta dishes are decent but its worth ordering a few for the table, as they aren't huge portions. The pici alla norcina is made with umbrian sausage, porcini mushroom and grana padano, whilst the burrata ravioli is perhaps one of the showstoppers, topped with batterini tomato, pine nuts and basil. Lovers of all things indulgent will enjoy the 30-egg yolk tagliolini with black truffle, butter and parmigiano reggiano, whilst the linguine with crab, Amalfi lemon, chilli and garlic is a wonderful choice for something refreshing.

If you've got room for dessert, try the pistachio or fior di latte sorbetti e gelati, but if you prefer a kick with your ice cream, try the coffee affogato. The chocolate mousse comes paired with salted caramel, whilst the cannolis are available with fillings of ricotta, pistachio and chocolate.