Lilac

The notion of a seaside restaurant, just steps away from Lyme Regis beach, with a focus on fresh ingredients and plenty of plant-based recipes powered by the seasons, sounds like the kind of place you might find big windows looking out to the water, or rustic, wooden communal tables. Instead, Lilac is a cosy enclave, buried below street level in a 400-year-old wine cellar, where low ceilings and cobbled, stone walls draw inwards to create an atmosphere that’s seen the 40-cover restaurant regularly dubbed as one of the UK’s most romantic.

Here, you feel the weight of this region’s history and somehow now part of it, by soaking it all in. The menu, of course, reinforces this by offering a sort of love letter to Devon and the Jurassic Coast with innovative, meticulously thought-through dishes that uplift raw and true flavours, often with contrasting pairings.

It’s hard work to get a daily changing menu right but the team here, founded by Harriet Mansell and led by Fay Hutchinson, manage it wonderfully, breaking up smaller plates into three phases - snacks to be enjoyed with a drink, smaller, mostly vegetarian dishes and then a show-stopper for mains. Alongside a seasonal Negroni, we enjoyed the fluffiest grilled flatbread one could hope to plunge their teeth into, topped with soft, pleasingly pungent pickled ewes cheese, thinly sliced courgette rounds, mint and crunchy pumpkin seeds. Sumptuous and yet fresh, decorated with tiny, purple flowers, this starter turned the humble flat bread into a staple of summer dining.

Moving on, and a crowd-pleasing favourite tenderstem broccoli is given a tasty update, drizzled in a sweet, creamy, peanut sauce and finished with crispy shallots and baby gem lettuce for a bit of bite. As for the main event, we kept it simple but indulgent, with medium-rare bavette which melted in the mouth. Served on a swirl of roasted yeast carrot puree accompanied by a kick of chimichurri, this often-ordered meat is suddenly presented to the tastebuds in a totally different way, and true to form, feels in-tune with the season.

Lilac is a British restaurant and wine bar located in the pretty area of Lyme Regis, Dorset. Just a short walk from the seafront, Lilac is open for drinks, nibbles and sharers, as well as restaurant dining. The menu is both seasonal and locally inspired, with a focus on sustainability and quality.

The interior is elegant and contemporary, very much like the seasonal menu which changes on a regular basis. An example of the dishes you may find include starters such as smoked mackerel pate served with pickled beetroot, and locally made sourdough served with cultured butter. Main courses may include a pan fried hake with celeriac puree and celery salsa, and Fowey mussels served with white wine and focaccia. You may also find a number of meat free dishes on the menu, such as the Wescombe ricotta gnudi served with heritage squash, pumpkin and pesto, and roasted carrots served with ajo blanco, and crisp cavolo nero. 

If you’re looking for desserts perhaps you’ll go for the chocolate fondant served with ice cream or the lemon posset served with poached pear and ginger crumble. 

Lilac has a large menu of wine and beer. Wines can be served by the glass or bottle, many of which can be paired with dishes from the menu. Many of the beers are locally sourced, with Lilac often collaborating with local distilleries and breweries. You can also pop in to Lilac for drinks and bar snacks, perhaps you’ll stop for a glass of bubbles and some Moroccan spiced cashews, or some house pickles served with split pea hummus and lavosh crackers. 

Lilac is open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday, with lunch available on the weekends.