Oozing Gallic character, this candlelit basement feels worlds away from the West End – though vintage theatrical flyers and the obligatory set menu (£13.50/16.45 for two/three courses) put you firmly in Theatreland. Reasonable prices (especially for the area) are a reminder that this is not French fine dining, instead expect a roll-call of bistro favourites and hearty classics, from moules marinière and pâté de maison to boeuf Bourguignon, confit duck and entrecôte with sauce au poivre. On our last visit, garlicky escargots made a great start, followed by a robust Toulouse cassoulet and rich boudin noir on a bed of creamy mash. Washed down with a quaffable bottle from the all-French wine list, and with a cheeky pot au chocolate or cheese to follow, this is comfort food par excellence. Convivial service adds to the appeal.