Kitchen at Holmes

You’ve heard of open kitchen restaurants, but not like this. It feels as if we’ve invited a team of private chefs to work their Mediterranean magic around our home kitchen island - if it possessed the sophistication of the four-star Holmes Hotel, that is. That being said, blessed with a separate entrance at 108 Baker Street, Kitchen at Holmes doesn’t feel like it’s hanging onto any hotel coattails; it's a confident Mediterranean restaurant in its own right.

Under the awning that shields the terrace, bottles illuminated by yellow shelf lighting cast an ambient glow over the dining room. It’s striking, but the kitchen holds our attention. From here, Italian and Mediterranean plates make their way, ferried by a brigade of staff, towards more secluded lamp-lit marble tables.

The menu is all day and eclectic, jumping from bar bites and sandwiches to larger grilled plates, pasta dishes, and seasonal mains. But led by the discerning palate of Stefano Motta, cooking here feels a cut above typical crowd-pleasing hotel fare.

Nowhere is this better reflected than in an addictive plate of cuttlefish croquettes, where each inky black morsel of béchamel is lifted by bright and tangy Tabasco mayonnaise. They may masquerade as humble ‘bites’, but smaller plates are far from elementary. A fact well supported by a lace-like canvas of beef carpaccio dappled with shaved black truffle. Elsewhere, dry-aged beef rump comes with a silky green peppercorn sauce and chips so golden they could have been touched by King Midas himself.

We close with a dark chocolate and banana dessert. It smacks of a grown-up banoffee pie, and the floral banana sauce and discs of bitter chocolate double as the perfect excuse to revisit The Beekeeper: a vodka cocktail that lures you with honey and elderflower but finishes with a lengthy chilli sting.

Any negatives are small, a rich and autumnal dish of braised lamb shoulder was a little tough in parts, but it’s comforting nonetheless, quickly overshadowed by astute unobtrusive service, vibrant Mediterranean flavours, and impressive cocktails. You don’t need to be a detective to figure it out; Kitchen at Holmes is a study in quality.

This ingredient-led all-dayer within the Holmes Hotel is found on bustling Baker Street and is a self-titled haven for foodies. Kitchen at Holmes serves breakfast through to dinner, and guests can watch the chefs make use of seasonal produce from their seats, thanks to an open kitchen. Those wanting to sit outside will be able to enjoy the restaurant's heated outdoor terrace with parasols to protect from the elements.

Head Chef Stefano Motta has used his travels around the Mediterranean to inspire the carefully thought-out menu with flavourful dishes from the sky, field and sea. The a la carte menu includes the likes of cuttlefish croquettes with tabasco mayo to start, followed by larger plates like asparagus and black truffle with parmesan fondue, poached egg and focaccia crumble and grilled octopus with potato, labneh, smoked paprika, burnt leeks and za’atar.

If you're really in the mood for a hearty meal, though, see the likes of the spiced roast half chicken with confit garlic, lemon and roasting jus, as well as the Lake District Farmers 35 days-aged 200g beef ribeye, which sounds delicious. As for dessert, don't forget about the sweet stuff because Kitchen at Holmes has a sumptuous selection of afters including white chocolate panna cotta with candied kumquat and sesame seeds tuile, as well as bonet with whipped cream, caramel, amaretto and pistachio crumble.

If you make it in time for breakfast, we think you'll be suitably impressed by the selection on offer including maple smoked bacon sandwich with salted butter, courgette and feta fritters with Greek yoghurt and za’atar, as well as all the classics from eggs any way to brioche French toast and vegan pancakes. When the weather's nice, there's also the roof terrace to enjoy, with a lovely view of the nearby buildings and rooftops.