Kioku by Endo

If you’ve eaten at any of Endo Kazutoshi’s restaurants, you start to notice certain giveaways that indicate it's been commandeered by the third gen sushi master. On a surface level, they’re always beautiful, and Kioku by Endo on the top floor of The OWO runs to the same brief. Pale woods and light beige tones dominate the space to luxurious effect, while a bustling open kitchen to the rear of the room connects the chef and their craft to the diner. It’s also bright: wraparound windows are an essential part of the restaurant's design, giving full weight to its sky-high location which offers a comprehensive view of London’s major landmarks.

But a restaurant ‘by Endo’ must first and foremost show the utmost care and respect for its ingredients – notably, towards sushi. This is where the menu really excels: ultra fresh pieces of sashimi and nigiri are served like royalty with a halo of edible flowers, and paired with two types of soy sauce: one light and sweet, the other deep and rich. Such respect is warranted for the quality of the fish, and showcased again via a plate of smoked yellow tail served with juicy batons of apple, caviar and a crisp layer of buckwheat and guanciale. This is very good indeed.

The rest of the menu comprises ‘middle’ and ‘main courses’, which are slightly larger but still belong under the umbrella of sharing plates. Chashu pork ramen ravioli is exactly that: flavoursome meat packed into al dente pockets of pasta and served in a soy-based tonkotsu broth. We could split hairs with a slightly chewy piece of duck, albeit saved by a sticky miso sauce. To finish, a holy grail creme brulee of silky custard hidden beneath caramelised sugar and complemented by tangy cream cheese icing and salty caviar.

We recommend letting the sommelier debunk the sake and wine list for you. What we drank – a sweet, mineral-rich white from Austria – was delicious. The final piece of information to know is that Kioku is pricey, with our meal costing £100 a head before wine. But you should also know that it will almost certainly be money well spent.

Kioku by Endo is a Japanese-influenced restaurant located on the rooftop of The OWO (The Old War Office) - one of London's largest food hubs. Endo Kazutoshi is the chef patron behind the concept – also a third-generation sushi chef and patron of Michelin-starred Endo at the Rotunda – where he brings together influences and experiences from throughout his life. As such, Kioku melds Japanese and Mediterranean influences that reflect his time spent between Japan and Spain.

Boasting panoramic views of Whitehall, Kioku by Endo comprises a 55-cover dining room, an eight-seat Chef’s Table, and a 55-cover alfresco terrace. For those looking to enjoy a more intimate meal, there is also an eight-seat private dining room for celebrations and corporate meals.

Connected to the restaurant, but located on the ground floor, is Kioku Bar, a bespoke 25-cover bar serving an exceptional sake programme curated by sake master Natsuki Kikuya, plus an inventive cocktail list. Integral to the experience is a bespoke record player which plays a selection of tracks chosen by the guests themselves, encouraging a fun and convivial atmosphere.

‘Kioku’ is a Japanese term meaning ‘memory’, with the restaurant based around Endo’s most significant life experiences. Some of the most influential are his travels to Yokohama, Tokyo and Spain, and diners are able to see this reflected through the interiors and food at the restaurant.

Kazutoshi's star has risen in recent years, thanks in large part to his omakase restaurant at the old Television Centre in White City. His meticulous, precise cooking and one-to-one style has garnered widespread national acclaim, and he’s now widely considered one of the greatest sushi masters in the country. He is also chef-patron of Creative Restaurant Group - the restaurant group co-founded by Misha Zelman that handles restaurants such as Humo, SUMI and 20 Berkeley.