Opening a trendy wine bar in 1970s Liverpool was a bold move, but in the intervening years Keith’s Wine Bar has transformed the Lark Lane district, which is now packed with licensed premises and restaurants. It is owned by the self-effacing Keith Haggis and retains a Marmite-like appeal: some bemoan the bar’s leaky toilets and peeling paintwork; others love its bohemian charm. Keith’s attracts poets and philosophers, jazz musicians and writers – along with artists whose work graces the walls. Food is comforting: succulent lamb kebabs in pitta with tahini, huge bowls of nachos, delectable swordfish steaks, plus many daily specials. Hearty soups with bread might start a meal that ends with warm homemade cakes and ice cream. Behind the vast antique bar, wine lists reach to the ceiling and are worth studying. But this is no place to visit in a hurry, as generations of south Liverpool’s finest have discovered.