My favourite restaurants: Tom Cenci

Tom Cenci, Executive chef of Maslow's group, shares his favourite restaurant picks, from a wine bar in St Ives to Turkish tantuni in North London.

Updated on • Written By Marina Rabin

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My favourite restaurants: Tom Cenci

For Tom Cenci, the Executive Chef of Maslow’s group, it was pretty much love-at-first-chop during his first time working in a kitchen when he was a teenager. It was during his weekend job at the Cliveden House Hotel in his hometown of Taplow, Berkshire, that Cenci well and truly caught the cooking bug. He spent his weekends grafting and learning the ropes from some of the best chefs in the game at this Michelin-starred kitchen while he finished school.

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After completing a culinary diploma, Cenci set about amassing a star-studded CV, working alongside some culinary heavyweights in the UK and beyond. He undertook stints in kitchens in Paris, at the two-starred Restaurant Laurent, in Istanbul, where he was head chef at Harvey Nichols, and later stopped off in Whistler, Canada, where he worked at a five-star hotel. Cenci credits his experiences abroad with deepening his appreciation of the demands of fine dining, and owes his ability to craft seasonal, inventive, dishes to his experience in Canada, where he was presented with the challenge of creating menus using only locally-sourced ingredients.

In between his international jaunts, Cenci worked in the kitchen of the gastronomical institution of Noble Rot in Mayfair, broadening his horizons of what an innovative approach to classic cuisine can look like, daring him to take more risks in his own cooking.

From 2012, Cenci spent six years at the helm of Duck & Waffle, London’s first upscale 24-hour restaurant, helping to develop the restaurant’s menu, and build its unique brand of whimsical takes on British cuisine.

Now, Cenci focuses his attention on his gig as Executive Chef of the Maslow’s group of members clubs and restaurants. Maslow’s restaurant portfolio includes bar and restaurant Nessa (of celeriac carbonara viral fame), Middle-Eastern restaurant Yasmin, and Mortimer House Kitchen.

Having spent his entire working life in some of the best kitchens across the world, Cenci has developed a sixth sense for what makes a good restaurant. So look no further for a guide to some of the finest food establishments in the UK, curated by expert taste buds.

St.Eia, Cornwall

inside counter with menu board behind

Tom says: 'St. Ives in Cornwall is a great place to visit, with multiple sandy beaches and a vibrant town. But if you want to get away from all the hustle and bustle, I’d recommend dining at St Eia, an intimate wine bar tucked away in the back streets of old St. Ives. It serves some fantastic small plates of food, which I’ve spent many happy times grazing on, it also has a wonderful wine selection too.'
Where: The Digey, St. Ives, TR26 1HR
Book now: St. Eia Wines

Facing Heaven, London

plates on yellow tablecloth

Tom says: 'Facing heaven is one of my top places to go in London. It’s really quirky, full of character and I always have a great meal there. It plays off Sichuanese cuisine, every dish is really flavourful. The food is so inventive and all vegan which blows my mind. Order the whole menu if you can.'
Where: 1a Bayford Street, Hackney, E8 3SE 
Book now: Facing Heaven

Durak Tantuni, London

outside streetside view

Tom says: 'This one is simple but so good. Durak Tantuni only serves one dish – ‘Tantuni’, a spiced mince served in Lavash bread. It reminds me of my time spent in Istanbul, where after a late night I would end up eating these; open till 2am. Make sure to drizzle each one with lemon and eat with the pickled chillies served on the table.' 
Where: 390 W Green Road, Seven Sisters, N15 3PX
Book now: Durak Tantuni

Royal China, London

chairs at bar at royal china

Tom says: 'Royal China has a few restaurants located around London. A little secret is that they serve a Dim Sum menu only for lunch each day, and it’s one of the best value-for-money places you can eat. It’s great on a hangover, the service is very straightforward and super quick. You have to try the Prawn Cheung Fung.'
Where: 40-42 Baker Street, Marylebone, W1U 7AJ 
Book now: Royal China Club

Berenjak, London

assortment of small and larger plate on a white tablecloth

Tom says: 'Berenjak is a play on Persian cuisine and the food pops with flavour - it’s a meat lovers paradise. It’s great for sharing and just getting your hands dirty. The portion sizes are generous, to say the least, and I don’t think I’ve ever left there without being stuffed to the brim. All the kebabs are amazing, but the Koobideh kabab stands out. Whenever I have friends staying in town this is first on my list to take them.'
Where: 27 Romilly Street, Soho, W1D 5AL 
Book now: Berenjak

Enjoyed adding Tom Cenci's recommendations to your list? We also asked chef titans Jeremy LeePaul Ainsworth, and Theo Randall where they like to eat.