My favourite restaurants: Ramael Scully

Few chefs have culinary influences as diverse as Ramael Scully. Born in Malaysia with Chinese, Indian, Irish, and Balinese heritage, and raised in Australia, the founder of eponymous restaurant Scully St James’s grew up with the food of several continents, and has since travelled the world as a chef to absorb even more about world cuisine.

After spending his formative years at Yotam Ottolenghi’s flagship Upper Street restaurant and then leaving the UK to work in Russia and Australia as a result of a visa mishap, Scully cut his teeth at Ottolenghi’s hit fine dining institution NOPI, famed for its eclectic Asian fusion dishes. Now six years into his solo venture Scully St James’s, he brings a wealth of experience and willingness to experiment to the boundary-pushing West End dining room.

Scully’s own tastes in restaurants are pleasingly unpretentious. 'Once in a blue moon, I need my rendang and massaman hit,' he says while discussing Malaysian comfort food in London. During our interview, he also mentions trying to find a good vegetarian spot for a friend in Rotterdam, and raves about how he came out of dinner 'so inspired to create incredible vegan dishes' in his own restaurant.

Ramael Scully’s diverse culinary heritage combined with his storied career makes him an ideal fit to guide us around London’s crowded and culturally diverse restaurant scene. Scully introduced us to five restaurants around the capital that have stood out to him for one reason or another, whether it’s his go-to local seafood joint, or a new Italian cult favourite.

Dapur, Holborn

Ramael says: 'Dapur has incredible Malaysian flavours - every now and again I need my full Malaysian hit. The owner, Sharizah Hashim, cooks like my mum cooks: coconut rice, meat, two veg. It’s also always open on Mondays! I love that, and I often take friends who can’t afford expensive meals. Another great thing about it is the menu changes every day - the closest thing you can find in London to my mother’s cooking!'
Where: 13 Lamb's Conduit Passage, WC1R 4RH
Read more: Dapur

Lyon’s Seafood & Wine Bar, Crouch End

Ramael says: 'This is my local restaurant, it’s only 15 minutes’ walk from my house. As well as amazing seafood, they specialise in natural wines and I love their cocktails. They do oysters the best way - au natural. Once a week, they have a market price on whole fish, which is prepared skilfully and always tastes so fresh. It’s just a great neighbourhood restaurant.'
Where: 1 Park Road, N8 8TE
Book now: Lyon's Seafood & Wine Bar

TA-KO, Stoke Newington

Ramael says: 'You can’t go wrong with tacos and cocktails! The cocktails here are banging. My favourite has to be the ‘Toasted Rice’, with toasted rice mezcal, salted agave and grapefruit bitters - so good. My former head chef Tonto [Tim “Tonto” Yates] consulted for the menu at the team's previous restaurant Victory Mansion, and it was always a place we would go together when we were working at NOPI. TA-KO do this red pepper pork collar taco with kimchi and mango salsa - I’m telling you, go and try this. The other best thing on the menu is their MSG Fries - nori fried potatoes, kampot pepper mayo, salt & vinegar powder.'
Where: 18 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7PL
Book now: TA-KO

Manteca, Shoreditch

Ramael says: 'Growing up in Australia, there were so many cool Italian pasta bars, but London was very late to the party! I knew David Carter from Smokestak and also Chris [Leach] through his residency at 10 Heddon Street. These boys are rocking it hard! I love that they make their own charcuterie, their own bread, a lot of care goes into the running of the restaurant. They have the right concept and I think they are just hitting it. I especially love the pig head croquettes and the crab cacio e pepe.'
Where: 49-51 Curtain Road, EC2A 3PT
Book now: Manteca

Berber & Q Shawarma Bar, Clerkenwell

Ramael says: 'I love the vibe of this place in Exmouth Market - you walk in and it’s got a big central bar, which feels welcoming and really friendly. You go in and you know your goal is to eat, drink, and get that Middle Eastern kick. I love that Josh [Katz] uses vegetables in a really creative way, he really thinks outside of the box. His food is out of this world - you can’t go wrong with his favourite cauliflower shawarma.'
Where: 46 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE
Book now: Berber & Q Shawarma Bar

Fancy a kebab now? Check out this guide to the best Turkish restaurants in London, or dive into our list of the 100 best restaurants in London, which includes Scully St James's and many more..