Hoppers Soho

The Sethi siblings (of Gymkhana and Brigadiers fame) hit the jackpot when they decided to introduce casual, small plates dining to Londoners en masse, and although the buzz around Hoppers has quelled, you can still expect to wait for a table in the evening. Luckily, the availability of a virtual queuing system means punters no longer have to physically hang around in Soho Square, while parties of between four and seven dining at lunchtime on weekdays can go one better by making a reservation.

Once inside, you’ll be rewarded with a buzzing, intimate space and an astoundingly good menu of “brilliant” Sri Lankan small plates at “very decent prices”. You’ll want to order the whole menu, but we’d suggest trying a few ‘short eats’ to start. We love the deeply meaty mutton rolls covered in crisp breadcrumbs, while the tongue-tingling tamarind and ginger chicken wings are a sticky, messy delight.

For the main event, pick one of the eponymous and “exceptionally good” hoppers (a bowl-shaped rice pancake with a gooey egg embedded in its base) or a sticky and crunchy dosa cone, then match it with your choice of curry – perhaps smoky charred ‘black pork’ or a sweet-tasting okra and plantain riff.

Order some roti bread to mop up any sauces that have managed to escape your grasp, while sipping on spice-infused cocktails from a concise collection – we like the lively Sambol Garita, which mixes green pepper Tequila with lime and toasted coconut salt.

Hoppers doesn’t do desserts, but sweet-toothed diners can get their fix from a frothy lassi-style drink which blends chocolate powder, coconut milk and spiced jaggery to create a concoction that would terrify your dentist. The best part? Hoppers is great value for money and you’re always made to feel welcome, thanks to accommodating features such as truly “lovely” service and a glossary of terms on the menu for the uninitiated.

Housed in a popular little spot on Frith Street, Hoppers Soho is largely responsible for putting Sri Lankan food well and truly on London’s map. The small and cheerful venue with its wooden furniture, bright yellow walls and framed Bollywood posters is inspired by the village toddy shops on the backstreets of Sri Lanka and the restaurant serves a laid-back informal menu of traditional and authentic dishes from the country including hoppers, dossas, kothus and roasts – all complimented by a tropical drinks list focussed around the popular native spirits Genever and Arrack.  The restaurant is the brainchild of the Sethi siblings, best known for their Indian restaurants Gymkhana and Brigadiers, and the success of their casual small plate outpost has seen Hoppers replicated in St Christopher’s Place and soon to be King’s Cross.

A very reasonable express lunch menu is a good way to experience a broad range of the restaurant’s popular dishes comprising mutton rolls, goat or veg Kothu rotis, a hopper or dosa, choice of Kari and selection of sambols or chutneys; but for those with more time on their hands the Taste of Hoppers feasting menus are an absolute must. For just £35 a head the whole table will be served a selection of signature dishes to share that showcase the very best of authentic Sri Lankan cusine. Choose between a meat or vegetarian option and look forward to sharing dishes that include hot butter chilli paneer; devilled squid; goat Kothu roti; Kappa cutlets; and bone marrow varuval. Next guests can choose between a traditional hopper- a large bowl shaped fermented rice and coconut milk pancake- or dosa – a pancake made from a fermented lentil and rice batter. Finally diners can choose a Kari (the Tamil term for a curry) of their choice to round off the feast with some Sri Lankan heat.