HIDE

True to its name, HIDE can be hard to find – the entrance is seamlessly concealed in plain sight on Piccadilly by large wooden doors which seem like they might in fact just be a wall.

Once inside (and up the stairs), the atmosphere is warm and relaxed, featuring widely spaced tables that ensure you never find yourself locking eyes with your fellow diners. Wherever you’re seated you’ll be afforded good views; either of Green Park through the glass front of the building or of the kitchen, which can be appreciated in the back half of the space. 

A meal here features the unusual flavour combinations and inventive presentation that are the hallmark of chef and owner Ollie Dabbous. Snacks set the tone with a richly umami Jerusalem artichoke stock accompanied by house-made charcuterie, wrapped around bones and feathers.  

Starters proper bring a light picked crab dish which is surrounded by a broth lightly scented with kaffir lime leaves to cut through the rich sea notes, plus the house signature ‘nest egg’ – a wonderfully smoky concoction of a slow-cooked egg yolk combined with butter, toasted mushrooms and cream all presented in a hollowed-out egg nestled on a bed of hay.

A main of sweetly glazed Wagyu short rib was balanced with a molasses yoghurt and charred spring onions but with just one small piece of meat served, it made the £44 price tag feel punchy; if you’ve time on your hands, the tasting menu (£140) might be the better way to get the most out of the food here.

Despite the quirky interiors – there are hints of Wes Anderson in the curved central staircase and the raised impressions of flowers printed into the walls, albeit if the director didn’t like colour – and small portion sizes, this is definitely a place of excess: the private dining room hides a car lift which brings guests directly to their table while the tables conceal drawers with phone chargers for each diner.

The service plays into this need to please with keen and knowledgeable staff topping up drinks faster than you can quaff them, and detailed explanation of each plate accompanying your courses, which can begin to wear by course eight of the tasting menu. The team of sommeliers are ever present too, perfectly pairing a range of dangerously drinkable wines – a fresh and textured white to start, for instance, and a slightly smoky pepper-rich plum shiraz to complement the beef main.

It’s safe to say HIDE is about more than the food; it’s an experience in every sense of the word. Just, perhaps, a once-in-a-lifetime one. 

HIDE is a modern British restaurant from chef Ollie Dabbous, encompassing three floors of a stunning space opposite Green Park. HIDE in Mayfair is comprised of three main spaces: the ground-floor restaurant, the bar downstairs and a slightly more high-end dining experience upstairs. At its core, HIDE is a Michelin-starred, multi-floor restaurant serving refined plates using the freshest ingredients. The restaurant above is the fanciest of its dining offerings, serving both a la carte and tasting menus, as well as a set lunch menu if you’re looking for an in-and-out meal. 

With tranquil views over Green Park, HIDE offers a relaxed and calming setting for diners to indulge in its dishes, which is accentuated by its all-natural décor. To reach the restaurant upstairs, guests must climb the spiral oak staircase to be greeted by a swathe of wooden furniture and flooring. All these soft surfaces are complemented by a colour palette of similar beige hues, via earthy-toned seating and lampshades. Finally, the glass-fronted ‘show window’ floods the space with plenty of natural light, which feels like the most appropriate lighting for a space like this. 

The tasting menu changes seasonally and features a range of innovative and, occasionally, theatrical dishes. Formulated by head chef Ollie Dabbous, there are both five and seven course menus available. If you prefer to retain a little more choice over what you want to eat, then the a la carte menu is just as special and made up of classic HIDE dishes from the tasting menu. Examples of dishes include golden turnip shavings with borage flower honey, pine and marigold, Herdwick lamb cooked over charcoal with roast garlic, violet artichoke and three-cornered leeks or Gigha halibut with citrus fruit and imperial caviar. Desserts are a similar artistic affair, with the likes of sherbet of mastic crystals with fresh blood orange and pine on the list. Both vegetarian and vegan versions of the a la carte menus are also available, and the tasting menu can be complemented with a wine pairing chosen by the sommelier team.