In a tourist honeypot like Wells, it’s smart thinking to offer a two-tiered eating & drinking operation. Goodfellows does just that with its cafe out front & proper restaurant at the back, where the emphasis is on food rather than flash. Tables in the restaurant are arranged around an open-plan kitchen, where one-time Michelin star winner Adam Fellows (ex-Charlton House Hotel, Shepton Mallet) turns out irresistible contemporary fish dishes, all pulled together by on-the-ball service & a warm welcome. From the bread through to petits-fours, every mouthful is impressive. Highlights include a beautifully presented & flavoured starter of chilled gazpacho with basil & asparagus & crayfish tails, fillet of brill partnered by saffron & soused vegetables, & a robustly flavoured pan-fried fillet of tuna with Mediterranean vegetables, aubergine, saffron puree & black olive tapenade. It’s not cheap, but a set lunch at £12.50/£15 for two/three courses is a steal, or you can opt for the lunch special in the cafe: a light main course, glass of house wine & a cake for £10. Note the restricted evening opening times in the restaurant.