Goodbye Horses

Even for the floppy-haired, fancy dog-toting denizens of De Beauvoir Town, Goodbye Horses is achingly cool. A custom-built rotary mixer and record deck greets you as you enter, spinning gently through a huge vinyl catalogue that includes a worrying amount of Cliff Richard. Beyond you lies a magnificent 10 metre-long wooden counter, made from a single piece of oak, proudly flaunting its dovetail joints. The wine list is natural. The speakers are refurbished Tannoy Lancasters from the 1970s. It doubles as a specialist pour-over coffee shop. Welcome to De Beauvoir.

There’s no lack of substance here though. Head chef Jack Coggins has cooked in some highly regarded kitchens, including the likes of Papi, Planque and The Baring, which happens to be just down the road. His menus here are certainly reminiscent of Papi’s off-the-wall idiosyncratic style. Raw beef comes in a very roughly chopped tartare, with a lovely smokey undercurrent of chilli and a smattering of sourdough croutons. The addition of fennel flowers we found a little distracting, but it's a subjective thing that will work for some and not for others. Likewise a salad of heirloom tomatoes, figs, tapenade and Corra Linn cheese, where the figs proved to be a step too far into confusion.

That said, there’s plenty of fantastic cooking here too. That includes a lovely melange of clams and courgettes, the latter cooked down into a sauce that sits in the shells, and an oxtail broken rice dish - think oxtail risotto but tighter - which is predictably flavour-packed. There’s a lot to like, though the menu is certainly on the more adventurous side and not every twist pays off.

Where Goodbye Horses does separate itself is as a wine bar. The by-the-glass selection is superb and whether it's a bone-dry Tinc Set (think pet-nat Cava) or a dangerously drinkable Catarrato Blanco at just £6 a glass, there’s something for everyone here and loads of room to discover something new for your collection. The list regularly switches things up, and staff are happy for you to try things, which we love. Goodbye Horses is unique, original, exciting - with some small tweaks to the menu, it could easily find itself among London’s essential restaurants.

Goodbye Horses is a wine bar and restaurant from entrepreneurial duo Alex Young and George de Vos - part of a trio of shops and businesses the pair run in De Beauvoir. The other two venues are comprised of a coffee shop specializing in pour-over coffee called Day Trip and a gelato bar called The Dreamery. Goodbye Horses comprises of a wine bar and restaurant with the kitchen being run by Jack Coggins, who makes the move from another celebrated east London wine bar restaurant, Papi and has also worked at Planque and The Baring.

Situated on the corner between Halliford Street and Elizabeth Avenue at the old site of Micheal’s Den pub the venue features design by Swiss architect Leopold Banchini as well as elements from De Vos’ own design agency. The specific design elements of the space are inspired by De Vos’ passion for travel and subsequent experiences in restaurants such as Glou Glou in Amsterdam, Ruby in San Francisco and Folderol in Paris. The venue consequently promises a modern and intriguing setting for guests to enjoy.  Guests will also be entertained as they enjoy Jack’s exceptional food by the vinyl records from the restaurant’s expansive 2,500 strong collection of albums which are the backdrop to the dining experience. 

The menu is based on sharing plates with a seasonal, sustainable and creative focus. The food is accompanied by a wine list curated by Natalie Nelles, formerly of Noble Fine Liquor, who works alongside Jack finding wines to accompany his food. She plans to champion biodynamic and organic bottles that will provide guests with an interesting and exciting drinking experience.