Following a low-key sympathetic redesign, the gothic revivalist lounge at The Gilbert Scott (Marcus Wareing’s St Pancras restaurant), relaunched in spring 2018. Few London rooms can match these haute-Victorian chambers for sheer jaw-droppingly gorgeous drama. Similarly uplifting are the well-balanced seasonal cocktails. Start with Bee Keeper, a refreshing lavender-infused gin and sloe gin, hibiscus and elderflower stir, sweetened by honey from Wareing’s Kent farm; or, at the richer end of a strong list, a sophisticated rum Manhattan that calls for Diplomatico Exclusiva rum, Fernet-Branca, dandelion and burdock, maple, ginger and chocolate bitters. Prices are fair by high-end hotel standards and a blistering wine list has much by-the-glass interest. Generously proportioned bar snacks are served at quasi-pub prices: rich sweet-and-sour chorizo jam with sourdough toast, for instance, or fat, fluffy smoked-potato and Gruyère croquettes with mustard emulsion. Craft beers, Gosset Champagne afternoon tea and sunny service complete the pretty picture.