A circular Champagne and oyster bar competes with views of Brighton beach as the main attraction at the Grand's boutique seafood eatery – the sight of staff shucking oysters and assembling platters of fruits de mer provides an entertaining sideshow for diners perched at the counter. Otherwise sit in the conservatory-style dining room and admire the sea view (try to ignore the busy road that rumbles in between). The large menu suits all budgets and tastes, ranging from fish and chips to beluga caviar via grilled local seafood with different sauces and a meaty grill section. Fish soup appears as a delicate and refined broth, although turbot with samphire has been a shade overcooked and too salty. Service is charmingly formal – everybody gets the 'sir' and 'madam' treatment – and the wine list is helpfully split by style to match different dishes.